2010 honda accord immobilizer not working

you have d2d issues. either you havent switched it to d2d mode properly, bad data port or time to hardwire the bypass from the starter to the dball.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

To have also tried using virtual tach and that doesn't work any better.

as mentioned virtual tach does not work well on this vehicle.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Looking at the w2w diagram for the dball2. It looks like I'd only have to hook up power,gnd,locks and the tach. Maybe the wire labeled "Blue/White: (-) GWR (Status) Input" not sure what that is.

What do you set the tach to on that? Or do you run a wire to an injector?

you should be using the tach setting on the remote start, and the dball will supply a tach signal to your remote start. The status wire will be connected from your remote starts status output aka ground when running. this wire stays active during the remote start cycleTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Awesome. Thanks I will give that a try

Still didn't work. I did find that my connection wasn't good to the headlight wire. I fixed that and checked all other connections. Is the factory alarm disable wire on the remote start always grounded? In the directions it has me hook that to the parking light wire. It constantly dings saying the headlights are on. I know it's reading at least part of the can bus since I can ground the trunk output on the dball and it will pop the trunk and if I do the RS take over it will run and the RS remote will unlock the door. I tried setting the RS to tach and hooked the tach wire from the dball to the RS. It continuously cranks and cranks. There's gotta be a setting or something I am missing or maybe a bad unit...

your factory disarm wire should be NO WHERE near your parking light connection. does it crank continuously without starting? or does it start then continue cranking? If it cranks continuously that is an immobilizer problem. If it starts and continues cranking, thats a tach issue.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

If you look at the dball guide for the 2010 accord ( http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9565&productid=553&firmwareid=10103 ) It shows you hook the headlight and factory disarm to a gray wire on the combination switch. It just cranks and cranks without starting. Unless I change it to voltage then it will crank for 1 second then stop. Still doesn't start though.