2010 honda accord immobilizer not working

place the key into the ignition without turning it. Remote start the car. does it run? your ground when running aka status wire is not turning on, or you have the wrong wire do you have auto headlights? that connection is only mandatory if you have auto lights. Personally, I would avoid that connection of the rearm to the parking light,instead connect it to the driver door pinTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Yes the car runs when the key is sitting in the ignition (not on) and RS is activated. Once started with the RS I can remove the key and it stays running. I do have auto headlights. So you think it's the status wire on the dball or the RS?

you need the status out of the viper into the dball. like i said put your rearm wire to the driver door pin. if you said theres a constant ground its a bad unitTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Is the status out issue causing the dball not to fire up? I am pretty stuck with this unit. This is what happens when you buy a "new" one off ebay.

Would grounding the status input on the dball or have a momentary ground trigger it to bypass?

yes you can test it by grounding the status wire, then remote start and if it starts you have a bad ground when running. reset the viper brain, redo the d2d switching upon power up, and test the d2d again. If not w2wTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

I don't think something is right with the grounding in the remote start. I couldn't get it to ground the blue white activation wire. I grounded the activation input for the dball using a relay on the acc wire and it works. I guess it's a cobble to do it this way but it does start and take over on it's own. Is there a setting I'm missing on the remote start? Also when it starts it honks once. Anyway to get rid of that honk?

You could also have used the pink low neg ignition wire on H2 and no relay required.

the one on the satellite harness? These are the ones I have with this remote start:   Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED* H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT* H1/8 BLACK GROUND H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH * not available with 1 button remote   4-pin satellite harness wiring daigram 1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT 2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT 3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT 4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT   Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram 1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT 2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT 3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT 4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT 5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT

  Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT* *Ignition controlled lock only   Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT