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2007 Toyota Camry, Remote Start

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accordexxx 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: May 02, 2010 at 11:57 PM / IP Logged  
Got everything working except ...
the defroster wire, does anyone know which wire it is?
and I cant seem to get the unlock to work, it requries a double pulse but even if I press it twice it still doesnt work.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 6:11 AM / IP Logged  
You want to double check the cars unlock wire you connected the R/S to.  A single pulse will unlock just the drivers door, the second pulse within 3 seconds will unlock the rest of the doors.  It should be a Gray wire in the drivers kick panel.  Test with a DMM for a (-) pulse when turning the the key in the drivers door.
Soldering is fun!
accordexxx 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  
Hey, I got the lock wire to work, and I looked in the same bunch of wires and found the grey wire which I assumed was the unlock.
I tested with a 12volt test light while turning the key in the keyhole in the drivers door.
The unlock wire at rest gives off a ground, and when I unlock with the key, it gives off a +12v pulse (Light is on when connected, but when unlock, the light goes off and back on).
Is this normal on the camry's? The rs on the camry was a pain in the *** !!! everything was 10x more complicated than my honda
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  

To test for a (-) signal with a DMM, set it for 20 VDC.  Attach the red lead to a good constant +12v source.  Probe with the black lead.  A ground signal will show +12v on the DMM.  The UnLock wire with a unlock pulse should test the same as the Lock wire with a lock pulse.  Your car is Type B (-) locks.

AudioVox says the Unlock wire could be Green.  Also, there could be a Violet wire there that will unlock all doors with just one unlock pulse.

Soldering is fun!
accordexxx 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 9:37 PM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:

To test for a (-) signal with a DMM, set it for 20 VDC.  Attach the red lead to a good constant +12v source.  Probe with the black lead.  A ground signal will show +12v on the DMM.  The UnLock wire with a unlock pulse should test the same as the Lock wire with a lock pulse.  Your car is Type B (-) locks.

AudioVox says the Unlock wire could be Green.  Also, there could be a Violet wire there that will unlock all doors with just one unlock pulse.
Hm also checked with a DMM, when I touched the black lead to the wire, it showed up as +12v, and when the key was turned (unlock), it jumped to zero and back up, well not exactly zero but it went down to 3-4v and back to 12v. The lock wire (which works) does the exact opposite.
And the violet and green wires didnt seem to work,
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 04, 2010 at 6:02 AM / IP Logged  

The lock wire test indications are correct.  It would seem that you have the wrong Gray wire for unlock.  I don't know if Canadian versions are different from the US ones.

Direct wire says:

Power Lock brown   -   driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 16

Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock gray (double pulse)   -   driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 8
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

These wires can also be found at the Body ECU which under the drivers dash and attached to the back of the fuse box.  You can also use the passenger door key cylinder unlock wire, which only requires a single pulse. It is gray (-) at the fuse box, top Left, 16 pin plug, pin 7.  Test this wire while turning the key in the passenger door.

Soldering is fun!
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 04, 2010 at 6:31 AM / IP Logged  
The brown lock and gray unlock are directly next to each other in the 25 pin plug, on the end nearest the firwall. The motor legs are directly next to them....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
accordexxx 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: May 04, 2010 at 2:32 PM / IP Logged  
taking a look now , will get back to you guys !
also i want to check with you for my 2nd starter wire using the -200mA starter output in the h2 harness, is this correct? I believe it is when I check with my +12v but I want to double check.
86 - connect to viper unit to 200mA starter output
30 - connect to 2nd starter wire in ignition harness
85+87 - connect to 30a fuse and +12v.
For a bit it was a little screwy with the remote start. The car wouldnt start or anything and all i heard was clicking when starting from the starter. I checked the battery at 11.5v .. so i said hey why not ill charge it a bit ... after a bit it worked again so I narrowed it down to this wire possibly being wrong? but now everythign works fine? can someone double check the relay for me . thanks
accordexxx 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: May 04, 2010 at 2:45 PM / IP Logged  
ps. tried finding the passeneger door unlock, only to find that there is no key cylinder on the passenger side
accordexxx 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: May 04, 2010 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  
nvm got it to work guys, found it in the becu ! Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciate it
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