converting polarity issue

Here is an updated, accurate drawing - sorry for the mistakes earlier.

Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote: I would have bought a little prototype board and soldered it ot that, then soldered the wires to the bottom of the board.  If you solder directly to the pins and make sure all the wires are taped together so no individual leg can be pulled off you'll be ok.  Alternatively, you could have went with a much larger NPN transistor that is available in a TO220 package - a little friendlier then the TO92 package.

I think I will go back and use a bigger one because I don't want that smaller one breaking on me over time. Can I just buy any NPN that is in a TO220 case? Also, should I use a proto board on the 220 as well?

I would think on the TO220 you could solder directly to the pins. On the TO92 as long as you secure all three wires and did a decent job soldering you shouldn't have any issues.Kevin Pierson

Your relay is wired wrong. 85 should be the positive door trigger 86 and 87 should be ground 30 should go to the - trigger input of the module 87a should have nothing. NO DIODES needed. The relay replaces diodes.Gary Sather

tonanzith wrote: Your relay is wired wrong. 85 should be the positive door trigger 86 and 87 should be ground 30 should go to the - trigger input of the module 87a should have nothing. NO DIODES needed. The relay replaces diodes.

There is no electrical difference between the way he had it wired and the way you say to wire it. Simply swapping Pins 30 and 87 will not change anything. The problem is that his + door pin voltage is going through a 10Kohm resistor which will limit his current to around 12mA - not nearly enough to pull a relay coil in.Kevin Pierson

Scratch that I read the post wrong. just use the dome light wire. it is - color is BLACK/ light blue and is found passenger kick or PJB, 46 pin plug (J-05), pin U The PJB (Passenger Junction Box) is behind the glove box. it is a straight - when any door is open and nothing when doors are closed and will work perfectly for the module.Gary Sather

OK, well i thought everything was running correctly... but i was wrong. The door trigger is functioning correctly using the transistor. The alarm still goes off if I arm the alarm, and then reach in the window and open the door, and the voice module announces "check doors" if i leave a door open and arm the alarm. However, something else weird is now happening with the dome light/door trigger. When I remote start the car, it starts correctly, but then immediately says "intruder alert, door access" so it must be getting a ground at the door trigger input when the car starts. The issue is also affecting the dome light when the car is running on remote start, the dome light will not come on like it did before I installed the transistor.

So are you ONLY using the (-) door trigger now? 

Do you have anything hooked up from the dome light output to make the dome light turn on when you remote start?

You may want to try diode isolation the two (-) door pin inputs just to make sure they are not backfeeding.

Something else you may want to try is to add a resistor from the base of the transistor to ground.  This will make sure it stays off when there is no signal present.

 

Kevin Pierson

Kevin, Yes I am only using the negative door trigger now, I have it split off into two branches when it leaves the collector and going into the (-) door trigger inputs of the alarm and the voice module.   Would it help if I hooked the positive input to the brain back up? And then used the (-) output from the collector to trigger the voice module? If that will not help and you think I should just install the diodes and resistors, I need to have the cathode side facing the transistor in each of the two branches right?

Well heres an update, during my lunch break i wired in two diodes, one for each door trigger input, and hooked up the resistor between the base and ground. This fixed the dome light issue, but it did not fix the issue with the triggers. Whenever i remote started the car, and open and shut a door, the voice module would say "intruder alert, door access" so somehow the door trigger was still getting a ground. So then I disconnected the negative door trigger input going to the alarm, and reconnected the positive input. Well this caused the door triggers to not work again, and somehow still made the voice module say intruder alert whenever i closed a door after remote starting. Needless to say i was pretty discouraged at this point, so i disconnected the transistor completely and I am going to try just using the negative wire from the domelight as a negative input to the voice module when i get home. If that does not work then who knows...