dei proximity sensor

Ok, I wired in 4 diodes. 2 on each trigger wire. The bands of the diodes are closest to the sensor.

Then I wired them all together and connected them to the brain.

The diodes were  1N4003 (1)  amp 200v diodes.

Now my proximity sensor seems to be working, but the shock doesnt seem to be. It will warn away, but no full trigger.

Also, now when one triggers the other doesnt work. If I come too close to the car and the warn away is triggered...then I hit the car, no alarm. But if I reach in the car all the way sometimes the siren will trigger. However, If I just hit the car from the front or back...The siren tiggers.

Lost again.

I did the same installation as you with a generic brand sensor which I got from Jeff.  I just re-tested it and it works fine.  The diodes I used were IN4007 though.  I should have used IN4001 but I didn't have any on hand.

What is the difference between the 1N4003 and the 1N4001 and the 1N4007?

Your works right now...?

I still can't get it, I spent all day messing with it!

Here's a diagram I got from Jeff.  He's also got it posted on his website. I hope he doesn't mind me posting it.  Anyway the difference of the diodes is voltage i believe.

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after one sensor triggers most alarms take 15 seconds or so to reinitialize themselves.. so if you are hitting the car right after you hear the warn away it won't go off.  as far as your shock sensor goes... the only time you should want this to go off is iff another car hits you or if someone is smashing a windoe... anymore sensitive and your alarm may false itself out.  to adjust your shock sensor use the aplm of your hand and smack the winshield fairly hard and adjust it so that it will go off if you were going to hit the winshield that hard.

  as far as the motion sensor goes... they are tricky... turn you interior zone all the way down and adjust you outside zone to warn away as if someone were looking in the windows... and then adjust your interior zone from there.  hope this helps

That helps alot! I did install them as the diagram shows, with exception of the diodes, they are closer to the sensor. Actually a few inches from the sensors.

 Also, the shock and the proximity sensor are run seperate to the trigger, but are caped together into the trigger wire at the end of there wire. Could this affect performance. Do the sensors need to connect at seperate points?

I was not aware of the lag between the triggering of each sensor. Hence the name nuicence circuitry I guess. This has been helpful, it has solved half my problem ( Me thinking there was one when there was not ".

So If someone can tell me if the location of the sensors on the trigger and the locations of the diodes could cause disfunction in my sytsem, I would Highly appreciate it.

Also, I just read a post that said to hook the sensor to the hood and door trigger. I have been hooking these to the brain through the one sensors wire. I cut the line and spliced the two sensors on tat line....Is this a problem?

The only time you should piggyback sensor trigger wires is if the system doesn't support additional input triggering devices. In the case that you read, chances are the alarm CPU did not have a external impact sensor that you could attach the two trigger wires of the perimeter sensor to so the installer had to use the hood or door trigger to set the alarm off ( using only the final trigger wire and not the warn away ). If this is the case you will still need to diode isolate the wires from each other and if you need to use 2 diodes you have to run them in parallel for then to work properly.

You have to make sure that if you are using the door trigger that you are using diodes because depending on the system of the car it can ge a (-) or a (+) trigger door . This will have adverse affects on the sensor if it's receiving a 12 volt signal when the door is open or closed.

So would this work then?