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03 honda crv avital 4103 and ads dlsl ha


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12voltboy 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2006
Posted: January 19, 2012 at 4:40 PM / IP Logged  

Kreg357 - thank you so much.

Can I pick up the tach test anywhere in the cab? if so I shoud be able to stay totally in cab and not need to go thorught the firewall.

There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 19, 2012 at 5:39 PM / IP Logged  
Don't see any Tach wires listed inside the vehicle.  Honda is pretty good with having a convenient grommet in the firewall.  If you run the wire carefully, away from heat & motion, and solder / tape your connection, you will be fine.
Soldering is fun!
flobee4 
Silver - Posts: 585
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 19, 2012 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  
I have gotten the tach inside on the CRV, but I'm not sure if it applies to this year. You can take a look at the fusebox above the gas pedal. You will see all the fuses and the above the fuses are a series of green plugs. While looking straight at the fusebox, the third connection up from the fuses on the face of the fusebox and on the left side should have a blue tach wire in it. Its a smaller green plug with about 8 or so wires in it.This plug also has the orange horn wire immediately to the right of the blue tach wire. Make sure you test.
Also, I feel the Idatalink doorlock and transponder module is too much for that car. You can find the doorlocks right at the drivers kick panel, as well as trunk release in the same connector. Negative lights are at the green alarm connector taped up to the left of the steering column(blue tape). Horn is in that green alarm connection also. Brake wire is at brake switch, easy to get to. Ignition wires are wrapped in gray tapped coming down the steering column and turning right in front of the fusebox area. When you take off the underdash you will see there is a hole to the right in the substructure with a gray taped harness going across it. This is your ignition wires if you want to grab them there. Data wires for transponder bypass are also in that harness. I personally use a dei's PKH3 or PKH34 or fortin's key override-all.
Also, you most likely do not have a factory alarm you will need to deal with. I have never done a CRV with a factory alarm until 2007. Not to say they are not out there...but rare.
12voltboy 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2006
Posted: January 20, 2012 at 9:47 PM / IP Logged  

Flobee4, thanks much for the info. You are right about the alarm, I tested with an open window. The green dash key fooled me into assuming it was a factory alarm. (You know what they say about those who assume).

I now see that idatlink may be overkill but I ordered everytiing before reading your post. Plus I have thought through how to install it and wanted to try one anyway. At this point it is not worth trying to change.

Will do the install in a week or two when I can get some time and will post up results when completed.

Thanks to all who offered assistance. This is by far the finest site on the web – hands down - because of the people. I have always found what I need mostly just by searching.

There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.
12voltboy 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2006
Posted: February 18, 2012 at 12:05 PM / IP Logged  

Here is a post up to close out this thread. Ended up with a nice, clean install with a few turns along the way.

The car does not have a light or anything on the hood so I could not use the factory yellow/red hood pin – nothing there. I had hoped to not need to go through the firewall at all. Sense I did, I didn’t bother to try the tack at the fuse box. I think I found it but it would be hard to get so I just used the one near the battery.

Had another small problem. For the ADS door lock data I needed to get on “pin 2” on the 17 pin connector located at the back of the fuse box. Really hard to get to but I believe I was on the right wire. However the locks did not work so I must not have been. Wasn’t sure what to probe for so I went to the drivers kick and got my locks.

Shame, this is my first use of a “modern” interface and I had hoped for a more factory like performance using the remote – one click for the driver door, two for the rest, etc. However it works like a traditional directed.

One more issue I will post in a new thread. Can’t get the ignition controlled lock/unlock to work.

All in all, went quickly and works fine. Couldn’t have done without the good advice received here!

There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.
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