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viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt


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kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 26, 2012 at 4:03 PM / IP Logged  

Have you tried a remote start in the truck after the semi-successfull ( red blink ) programming?  While

the DBALL is not supplying any of those dashed blue line signals shown on the left side of the DBALL
install diagram, it might be handling the bypass function OK.

Hate to even suggest it, but triple check the HSCAN connections.  It's that or the DBALL is bad or flashed

with the wrong firmware.

I might be mistaken but I believe the HSCAN connection supplies the Tach, Brake, Door & Trunk Status

signals, only.  The DBALL should run without them as a simple bypass module, just connected to the PATS
system and bypassing that when GWR ( - Status Output ) is true.

The hardest part of going hardwire on that truck is the (-) N.C. door triggers.  Might need a DTIMazda module. 

That is the only place the DBALL earns it keep.

Soldering is fun!
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 26, 2012 at 6:42 PM / IP Logged  
Success! Connected the BLACK/ wht wire to ground and the truck starts. Still can't get the DBALL to fully program, so it's not doing door triggers, foot brake, etc.
Really want the door triggers instead of going to the dome light and don't want to wore any diodes. Going to mess with programming more, making progress!!
Going to the ford dealership to see of one of these keys is a clone or if they are both master keys, truck was used when I purchased.
If I can't program the door pins, what is necessary besides diodes since they are (-) NC ?
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 26, 2012 at 6:44 PM / IP Logged  
Also, if I have working what is described above an the truck starts but has no door pin or foot brake sensing through the DBALL, do I need to hook up the GWR wire at all?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 26, 2012 at 8:42 PM / IP Logged  

OK!   viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt - Page 4 -- posted image.   

The fact that the truck will remote start without a key near the ignition switch means that the

DBALL did program the bypass function and you do have two unique transponder keys.  The GWR
signal is coming thru the D2D harness ( no need for a separate wire connection ).   With no Tach
signal / connection, the Viper is in Virtual Tach Mode. 

All that is left is getting the HSCAN portion to work.

For safeties sake, temporarily hook up the Viper to the Brake signal ( PURPLE / White ) @ pedal switch. 

This will allow a proper key-take-over and emergency engine shutdown.

Just for fun, you can connect the Viper directly to one of the Door Triggers to test the Vipers

alarm functions.  Program the Viper to N.C., Menu 1. Item 13, Option 2, and connect the H1/8
Green wire to the GREEN/ Purple Drivers Door Trigger in the Drivers Kick Panel.  You can also try
using the Dome Light but if there is an exit delay / fade that could cause problems with the Viper.

Soldering is fun!
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 26, 2012 at 10:37 PM / IP Logged  
DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After the success above, switched the HSCAN wires again (now they are in the opposite positions as they are supposed to be according to the instructions) and door pins, foot brake work!!
Pretty much there! Thanks you SOOO much for all you help man, truly appreciate it! Saved about $450 and learned quite a bit here. Alarm/RS systems in these new cars are no joke if you don't have experience on them, thanks to all for you support. I'll be hanging around here and maybe even offer up my limited knowledge from this experience to others with equivalent installs.
Greg
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 27, 2012 at 2:17 PM / IP Logged  
Oh, and after all this the DBALL STILL flashes constant red at programming step #4, indicating "CANS not supported".
Maybe some additional things are not supported, but the door pins and foot brake inputs are!
egejo 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Ecuador
Posted: July 04, 2012 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  
Please HELP :(
Today I wired the alarm and put the H1/11: Park Light Output to driver kick, sbj gray 13 pin plug e, pin 6 purple white.
Set the alarm module fuse to + too
However, when I arm the alarm everything acts normal, parking ligth flashes, doors lock etc.., but on disarm the Headlights turn on and off after a few secs like 10. Is these normal??? or something is wrong on the wiring as I was careful to don't touch the headlight wiring to dont burn them.
The only thing I think might be is that I followed the Technical document 1098 for disarming the factory alarm on Ford 2010 with the relays etc...but as I have 556UW interface module I have no TX or RX cables from that wiring diagram and it is not showed there as compatible module...Do I need another module? Is these causing the headlight turns on.
PS. If I put the headlight contactor to OFF they don't turn on, only if they are on AUTO mode these happens. However, as I have HID I could hear they still try to get turn on when disarming the alarm.
Thanks for the help in advance ;)
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 06, 2012 at 5:31 AM / IP Logged  

Your Parking Light connection is correct and not causing the problem.   Neither is the 556UW bypass.

Does your F150 actually have the Factory Alarm?  Most of them don't.  As a test, roll down the drivers

door window, turn off and exit the truck.   Press the lock button with the door open, then close the door. 
Wait two minutes and then open the drivers door with the inside handle.  If the horn starts beeping, you
have the Factory Alarm.   No Factory Alarm = No need for DEI 1098.

The reason your headlights come on is DEI Tip 1098 actually pulses the trucks ignition ( & bypass )

momentarily to turn off the alarm.   That's almost the same as inserting a key and quickly turning to
RUN and back to OFF.

Soldering is fun!
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