viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt

Just a thought. On the 3 Ford products I have installed on using a bypass module, I found there to be a second set of wires the same color as the TX and RX wires. Of course I was on the wrong set the first time around. Dug around and found a set of wires smaller gauge and used them.  

I have only tried to use a DBALL once and had no luck with it. Tossed it for a Fortin Key Override All. Love them. 

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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kreg357 wrote: Yes, as you found out, DEI Tech Support is only for authorized dealers.  From what I can tell from the DBALL install guide, the actual programming could be done without any connections to the Viper.  As long as you were in W2W mode and had just the Red and Black wires ( +12V & ground ) connected from the 14 Pin plug ( and the 5 wires, shown in solid black, connected to the truck ), it should program.

Agreed, but the final step in programming the DBALL is to remote start the truck. I also now think that the numerous red flashes I get after key 1 is done are OK, just means ALL status are not supported. I had stopped every time previously there. I have now moved forward, seems like it will work but the truck won't remote start in order to finish programming the module.

Oh, and when it does fail to remote start during programming, the viper brain clicks a few times and the parking lights flash 7 times, any significance to that? PS, thank you SO MUCH for being as helpful as you have been thus far, i really appreciate it.

smokeman1 wrote: Just a thought. On the 3 Ford products I have installed on using a bypass module, I found there to be a second set of wires the same color as the TX and RX wires. Of course I was on the wrong set the first time around. Dug around and found a set of wires smaller gauge and used them.   I have only tried to use a DBALL once and had no luck with it. Tossed it for a Fortin Key Override All. Love them.

I tapped the TX/RX and Ignition for PATS right at the PATS connector, so they've got to be the right wires. Odd (and stupid) question: On the starter, the plug side is the key side and the other side is car side, correct?

Actually, you don't have to remote start the truck to finish the programming, just follow the manual transmission step 8 and jump +12V to the Ignition wire. 

Seven flashes means you are still in MTS mode.  Change the Vipers programming to Auto Trans, Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2.

Soldering is fun!

OK, got into the menue ONCE and messed up. Now it won't let me back in. Each time I have door open, ignition on then off and press the control button the thing goes into valet mode. Doesn't matter if I hold it down for 3, 5, 10 seconds or not, as soon as I let off it's in valet, solid blue LED on the control

Being as the DBALL isn't programmed yet and is not providing the Door Status signal, you might have to manually simulate the Door Trigger by touching the Vipers' H1/8 Green wire to chassis ground to get into programming.Soldering is fun!

Finally realized that myself last night and it worked, was able to trigger the door and get into programming mode. Successfully put it into AT mode. Now when trying to remote start the lights flash 8 times, "toggle switch off". I have the NSS plugged into viper and in the on position. Also, I was able to get the DBALL to hold a 3 sec solid green LED by finishing the programming by doing the jumper method as you would for a MT, so supposedly it's programmed ( still shooting for D2D success). When doing the jumper though the truck did not actually start. However, the alarm STILL had to be physically grounded to think a door was open in order to enter programming mode, so the DBALL obviously isn't telling the viper the door status, even though it's supposedly programmed. So I know my CANHi and CANLo are connected right. I know TX/RX and ignition at the PATS plug are right. Other than that the only connection off the DBALL is the D2D cable to the Viper. The viper only has the ignition/power/accessory/starter wires that it should on H3 (covered earlier on this thread) connected. Besides those the only connections bt the viper and truck are the parking light, seems to work, and the door lock and unlock, which also works. The guys at car toys and best buy tell me they use this thing all the time in D2D with success. I don't wanna give up on that! Ill go W2W tonight if I still cnt get it to work, but I think there is something else to this. Does the DBALL have to be flashed for either W2W or D2D specifically, or only to the proper vehicle?

Getting closer... 

While you might be connected to the HSCAN wires correctly, if the DBALL flashes

Red at Step 4 during programming, the DBALL isn't detecting the HSCAN and isonly programming the transponder bypass RX/TX side of the module.

For Neutral Safety, you need Viper H2/18 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT

connected to a solid chassis ground, the Neutral Safety Switch harness pluggedin to the Viper and the switch set to ON.

As far as I know, there is no specific D2D or W2W firmware.  Just the correct

flavor for the vehicle type.  Think it decides which communication method via the D2D harness power input.

Soldering is fun!

Ahh, so the wire has to be grounded IN ADDITION to the NSS. I assume of the DBALL would comm. it would sub for that wire. So the DBALL has always flashed red at step 4. My truck's help center says "2 admin keys programmed, 0 mykeys". Is there anything on the truck side that may be preventing the DBALL from getting good CANS between itself and the truck? Or is the DBALL simply failing to comm. on its side? I have got to think by now either the DBALL is a dud or it's still not flashed correctly (really should have gotten the cable already). Gonna pick another DBALL up tonight, flash at best buy and test. If that one doesn't work either something's up. In W2W the DBALL must still communicate via the CAN wires, correct? If I do go the hardwire route eventually what bypass do you recommend most on this truck for ease of install and programming?