altenator problem issue

As long as 4 gauge is sufficient for your amps and you've fused it properly, sure.Support the12volt.com

The terminals look like they can only handle 4 gauge nothing higherMECP Certified

Dont Ground Out!!!

Many good points have been brought up above and that advice should be taken.

One thing to keep in mind.  Many replacement alternators are cheaply rebuilt and will only last for a while even without a stereo system or upgraded electronics.  I have learned over the years to search out a reputable alternator repair shop and have them rebuild my alternators with QUALITY components.  I also tell them if I have any upgrades and what my use is.  I have an old Jeep CJ7 I take 4 wheeling.  I run big lights and a winch.  I had a stock (50A I believe) alternator.  I took it to them and it now puts out 135 amps and is designed to put out max power below 2,000 RPM.  My Jeep is an inline 6 and spends most all of its time at lower RPM.  I have had no problems for years and I run Deka AGM batteries, run big lights, have a high current electric cooling fan, winch, etc regularly without a single hiccup for years.  The cost to have this done was the same as buying a cheap auto parts store 1 yr warranty alternator. 

Yes - a point I try to make - QUALITY HO alternators. Re-wounds may not have the thermal inertia, and any part can be cheap... Deka AGMs were highly recommended to me down here in Aus; they were in the top 2 if not top for "most" AGM use.

I had purchased a new alternator but not a high output one. It outputs 130 amps. I think this is sufficient. However I have seen more crazier systems put into cars with lower output stock alternators and nothing happen after some time (about a year or more). I have taken out all music since then and ordered the 0 Gauge to run from front to back. I probably will keep the 4 ga. running to my amps. Should I up these to 0 gauge as well?MECP Certified

Dont Ground Out!!!

sometimes when it comes to a charging system it can be a little luck of the draw. a while back i competed with a true 2000W system (bass only, not including highs) and wont first place trophies in my local area and region scoring over a 150db on a optima red top battery under the hood and a bone stock charging system in my 01 ranger. still have the ranger and its still bone stock on the charging end except that it now has two 18's in the back instead of just one. NO PROBLEMS at all. i have learned that some cars are just better than others to put a big system in them. you have to be careful of even "high end" alternators and you have to know their output curve. most alternators and not wound to give you much output below 2000rpm and some need to go as high as 6000rpm to see its rated output. the best thing you can do is pay a local alternator shop to custom wind an alternator to your needs.

oldspark wrote: Yes - a point I try to make - QUALITY HO alternators. Re-wounds may not have the thermal inertia, and any part can be cheap... Deka AGMs were highly recommended to me down here in Aus; they were in the top 2 if not top for "most" AGM use.

I use Deka quite often... Good Stuff... I use them for most of my Lead Acid replacements, as well...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote: oldspark wrote: Yes - a point I try to make - QUALITY HO alternators. Re-wounds may not have the thermal inertia, and any part can be cheap... Deka AGMs were highly recommended to me down here in Aus; they were in the top 2 if not top for "most" AGM use. I use Deka quite often... Good Stuff...

Agreed.  My buddies ahd nothing but trouble with the newew Optimas.  I have a diesel truck and kept reading about Deka.  I bought 3 intimidators (Deka Yellow Top) and got a smokin deal.  One is in my Jeep and 2 in my truck.  They get plenty of a workout and have not had a single issue yet.

Thanks for confirming - er, I mean supporting - that Deka are good stateside. I've hear little of them from there and have tended to mention Kintetik whereas I recommended (suggest) Deka down here. The Optima feedback is consistent with many reports - albethat not always, and not including Optimas from many years ago - though some seem to love them despite problems! I appreciate the feedback - not that I want to turn this thread into (another!) battle of batteries.

soundnsecurity wrote: ... a true 2000W system .... scoring over a 150db on a optima red top battery under the hood and a bone stock charging system...

Funny how that makes me thing how LESS capacitance or GREATER resistance increases SPL. Many have claimed higher SPL by removing caps. Hence I proposed using wet lead acids (not legal if within a vehicle) for their higher internal resistance and hence "battery capacitance" attenuated by increased resistance, but having an AGM under the hood is similar - the longer cable run adding extra resistance though better because it's a lumped external resistance rather than being internally distributed with capacitance, and state of charge. A new trend for SPL comps perhaps - long cabling between batt+ and the amp(s)? (Or maybe smaller cable for a light show fireworks as well?) (...ie, fireworks) Cheeky exit comment: "a true 2000W system". Hmmm - RMS or continuous (average) power? [ Last week I read a definition of "peak power" as being what can be "sustained for short bursts". I wish they would state THAT definition when used (as opposed to peak power which is always DOUBLE the RMS power {by mathematical, engineering, electrical etc definition} and how long the burst is and, if relevant, the frequency, otherwise IMO the claims are meaningless (just as claims of my 1600cc pushrod 87HP 3,000HP peak car engine). ]

yea, i guess i cant say for sure if the actual output was a true 2000 watts, not taking into account any voltage drops and coil resistance at X frequency, etc. i will say that i know that there was a substantial voltage drop when i burp at full blast, even killed my truck once, so i know the voltage dropped to at least 10v or less for the truck to quit running.