aftermarket or factory alarm?

That is a T Harness. See the harness in the funky colored sheathing? The original place for that plug is where the right side of the T Harness is now plugged. Remove the T harness and plug the OEM harness back into the ignition switch.

Did you happen to jump start the vehicle just before this happened? Have you checked the fuses in the fusebox under the hood? Pay close attention to the larger size fuses.

My brother had the truck sitting for a few months, and it needed a jump to start. After driving it 70 miles to my place, I had a new starter put in. I had all the fuses and relays under the hood checked and below the driver side dash checked, and they all checked out good. The only problem I found was that the fuse to the gauges and turn signal weren't getting 12v like the others were. So, I begin to wonder if the alarm was the culprit afterall, the LED was blinking really fast and would not turn off even when I pushed the switch in the off position. Always willing to learn something new.

Pull out the two white plugs, male and female (with acknowledgement to Kregg) and push the original together. If it doesn't go bang it will solve your problem.

       

Soldering is fun!

I would like to thank everyone for their valuable input. The issue with the flashing LED alarm light is resolved however, the truck still will not start. I guess it's on to another forum to see if perhaps it's something with the ignition switch because the dash warning lights just refuse to come on. Thanks again for your help!Always willing to learn something new.

You can use a DMM to test all of your wiring coming off the ignition. You should have the following wires at that plug you just reconnected: WHITE/ black - Constant 12 volts (should show 12 volts regardless of key position) BLACK / YELLOW - Starter (should show 12 volts only when key is turned to 'start')      BLACK / YELLOW - 2nd Starter (same as starter wire above) BLACK/ white - Ignition (should show 12 volts when key is turned to 'on' and maintain 12 volts through starting the vehicle) BLACK/ blue - Accessory (should show 12 volts when key is turned to 'acc' and/or 'on' and should drop to 0 volts during cranking of starter)     Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Do you have any means of testing such as a Digital Multimeter (DMM) or even a 12v test light? First check all the fuses, especially engine bay. Then the leads at the ignition switch. I'm not trying to be funny but once you've stripped the under dash and steering column cowling this is a 5 minute job. Though I still charge £60 per first hour call-out, gasoline is now = to $11 per gallon in the UK.

Sorry Kenny, "great minds etc."

I do have a digital multi-meter and a 12v test light. When you say fuses, are you referring to the relays also? I have already removed the under dash and steering column cowling. There are two fuses under the dash that are not getting any voltage. One of the 10A fuses goes to meters and gauges, a/c, ecm, inhibitor switch, and a host of other things with a w/b wire. The other fuse (which is right next to it) goes to the hazard lights, turn signal, and bulb check relay with a orange wire. The funny thing about that one is the hazard lights work, and the bulb check relay is good (I checked it already).Always willing to learn something new.