remote start / stop, 99 lexus rx300

Here's how to do priority unlock using the lower diagram you supplied on page 4: rx_300_prriority_unlock.png Yes it's in the driver's door and you will have to pass through three wires, dead easy if you have any WD40. Unplug the door wiring plugs in the driver's kickwell and pull them out to the door. Spray WD40 into the exposed tubing and push -pull use welding rod into the door being careful to miss any moving parts in the door. SIMPLE. I'm still not sure since your unit is an R/S not R/S with security that you need to do what's in the Avox diagram you might just try grounding the marked (-) lock and unlock wires first to see what happens. I did a UK spec RX 300 and that's all that was needed, in fact extending the lock time gave me window and roof close.(Comfort control).

Howie now that you say it the last one I did worked the same way.   I also extended the pulses for comfort close.If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Always ignored that relay diagram. Except you MUST go into the door. Are you reading and even understanding this bobster?

howie ll wrote: Always ignored that relay diagram. Except you MUST go into the door. Are you reading and even understanding this bobster?

Ok Howie, Is everything in that diagram all i need to do? One question, On the relay, is power supplied to 87,85 and 86? Thanks

If you have to ask that question don't even try to attempt it. Power is supplied to 87 and 86. The unlock wire from the R/S NEG (-) goes to 85.

Just 86 and 87If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ok i got it. I read it wrong. I can and will handle this. I have everything except the diode so i will have to wait until radioshack opens probable tuesday. I will report back. Thanks guys!

Just to clarify, The motor wire, unlock, lock wire connections must be made between the door ECU and the lock itself not at the combo switch. Correct?

Between the ECU and the combo switch. Frankly wherever you can get at the wiring the easiest way.

howie ll wrote: Between the ECU and the combo switch. Frankly wherever you can get at the wiring the easiest way.

The lock function works on 3 doors not drivers. The unlock function does not work on any door. Oh well, more wasted time. The following is copied here from another member from way back. I guess i will try it next. HOW TO DO KEYLESS ENTRY: It's a little tricky, but not hard once you understand how the system works. I forget the wire colors, but I'll give you an overview and you'll be able to find them yourself. First, find and test these three wires---they should all be at the power window switch: Lock wire---it tests by twisting the key in the door, NOT by using the rocker switch. Unlock wire----again, it tests with the key in the door. Unlock detection wire----often, but incorrectly, called the "child safety wire:" This wire will show a ground if the doors are unlocked; and be dead (or nearly dead) with the doors locked. HOW TO UNLOCK: This is the easy part. Take your unit's negative unlock output, split it with two diodes. One side goes to the unlock detection wire, and the other goes to the unlock wire. When the car sees both wires go negative at the same time, the door(s) and hatch will unlock. NOTE: If you do this in the passenger door, all doors open on a single pulse. If you do it in the driver's door, only the driver's door unlocks on the first pulse; a second pulse unlocks all the others. Also, in either case, this disarms the factory alarm too. Furthermore, as long as the motor's not running, the factory domelight supervision kicks on too. NOTE: I use Audivox units with strong 300ma lock/unlock outputs.......if yours is weaker, you may need to use a relay to give enough strength to power up both of these wires at the same time. HOW TO LOCK: A little trickier here, but not too bad. Two things need to happen to lock the car-----the unlock detection wire must go dead, AND the lock wire must see a ground, at the same time. To do this, you'll tie your unit's lock wire into the car's lock wire, AND at the same time, to the 85 terminal of a relay............. Cut the unlock detection wire in half. One side to 30 of your relay, the other side to 87a---doesn't matter which is which. 87 will be unused. For the constant power you need for the 85 terminal, there's a thick constant wire at the power window switch----no need to run your own wire from inside the car for this. So, here's how it happens: When the user presses Lock on his remote, the lock wire in the car sees a ground, and the relay temporarily interrupts the unlock detection wire, fooling the car into thinking it has gone dead, and thus the doors lock. Also, this arms the factory alarm.