4113 and dlpk on 08 impala

Yes, they will let me keep the wiring. (Very considerate and I appreciate that. I will just jumper between the pink and WHITE/ blk wire near the plug. Thanks again! Chiefdone

I have installed the 4113 and DLPK with RFLGHGM loop on an 08 Impala LS. First DLPK did not initialize (flash) when I first plugged it in per instructions. Sent it back and got a replacement. Installed it today and it too did not "flash" the LED on the DLPK when I installed it. Went ahead and connected everything and checked programming. Car will start and run on "voltage" setting (menu 2 item 1). However, it still displays the message that Security System has a problem. Does this tell me that the DLPK is still not initializing correctly? What else can I check. Also, I have to key start the car first before the remote will start it once. Thanks for any suggestions. Chiefdone

I have a new issue. In trying to work out issues, my 4113 is "stuck". The LED is flashing 1/sec and I can't clear it. Any suggestions?Chiefdone

Also, I have to key start the car first before the remote will start it once.

This indicates that the DLPK is not receiving constant +12V power input ( or possibly Chassis Ground ).Here is a note from the install guide :WARNING: Every time the DLPK is

disconnected, once reconnected the vehicle

needs to be started with the key.

Seems that both issues, bypass module programming and the needed key start prior to the one R/S, are related. 

Please review and / or post your DLPK CN1 wiring.  Personally, I would cut the far end of the CN1 harness and hard wire the +12V and Chassis ground wires to the 4113 thick Red ( H2/4 or H2/6 and H1/8 Black wires ).  Rememberthat while the DLPK guide states the the +12V is Blue and the Chassis Ground is Black, these colors can vary, so goby the actual pin location.

Soldering is fun!

My DLPK wiring on Cn1 is pin 1, blu, to large pink on 4113. Pin 2, blk, is to same wire as 4113 H1 pin 8. As I posted later, my current problem is that the 4113 LED is flashing once per second and nothing I have tried will stop it. I have disconnected all plugs for 12 hours; tried the trouble shooting procedure; tried the programming procedure and nothing stops the 4113 LED from flashing. No response from valet button and nothing from remote. I am stopped until I can "unfreeze" the 4113. What do I have to do to get the flashing LED to go off?Chiefdone

Not sure on the 4113 but the DLPK should not be getting its' constant +12 Volt power from the vehicles main Ignition wire.  That is only ON when the key is in the ON position.  It needs constant +12V all the time.  Connect the DLPH CN1 Blue to a thick Red wire mentioned above.Soldering is fun!

Sorry, I meant large RED. So I am ok on that. I have verified that I have constant 12 v at 4113 and DLPK with a DVM. I am still hung with the 4113 flashing LED.Chiefdone

Ok. I finally stopped flashing LED by manually starting and trying different sequences of buttons. It will start remotely one time. Second time, it says "check theft security system". New information is it will start remotely IF I leave key in ignition in off position. I can then take over by turning key to ON and pressing brake. I do have 12 VDC at Cn 1 on DLPK. Have never yet seen flash on DLPK when powering it up per instructions. Therefore, I don't believe it is functioning and the RFLCHGM loop is not able to fool the system to think there is a key there. This is second DLPK module and both act the same. Any other suggestions? ThanksChiefdone

Latest update. I found on another blog that some of these had the power wire color incorrect for the DLPK. My paper said blue was 12v, in another book, it showed red was 12v so I tied the red to the 12v large red wires of the 4113 and then followed the instuctions. When I depressed the button and inserted Con 1, I got the LED on the DLPK! NExt step was to start the car with the key and that would program the DLPK. Now the car will not start with the key. LED is still lit on DLPK but since the car won't start, it never goes to flashing which would indicate it programmed. That is the only thing I changed. What should I try next? If I reconnect the brown wire from the transponder, it may start but may not program. That seems to be the next step and may mean I am close to solving this whole installation. Thanks for any thoughts.Chiefdone

Well, I'm slightly confused.  A few things to re-state.

There are two connectors at the ignition switch that are used in the install.  One is the Main Ignition connector.  The other is the

Transponder connector.  This is shown in the photo on Page 1.  While some of the wires in these connectors have the same name and color, for the purposes of the install, you must follow the DLPK install guide very closely.

On the Main Ignition connector the Pink Ignition wire and the Brown Accessory wire are used.  They will have connections from

the Avital 4113 thick wires.  The DLPK Yellow wire will connect to the White V Data wire on this same plug.

On the Transponder connector, no 4113 direct connections are made.  Only the wires shown in the DLPK install guide are connected

to this plug.  Additionally the cut Brown ( or possibly Yellow ) wire and it's connections are important. the DLPK WHITE/ Black must goto the connector side on this cut wire and the DLPK Pink wire must go to the car side of this cut wire.

As mentioned earlier :

Seems that both issues, bypass module programming and the needed key start prior to the one R/S, are related. 

Please review and / or post your DLPK CN1 wiring.  Personally, I would cut the far end of the CN1 harness and

hard wire the +12V and Chassis ground wires to the 4113 thick Red ( H2/4 or H2/6 and H1/8 Black wires ).  Remember

that while the DLPK guide states the the +12V is Blue and the Chassis Ground is Black, these colors can vary, so go

by the actual pin location.

The DLPK is actually a Fortin CAN-SL2 module OEM'd to Xpresskit.  Here is a link to the CAN-SL2 install guide :

http://fortin.ca/download/1179/can-sl2_chevrolet_impala_(2006-2009).rev-a.pdfWhile there are wire color differences, the pin locations remain the same.  So, go by the pin location ( not the wire color ) for theCN1 wires.

I'm not sure exactly where the problem is but the wiring chart given on Page 3 should be accurate and the DLPK ( CAN-SL2 )

install guide should be followed exactly.

Soldering is fun!