Fried my Viper 5706v

Go back and set it as virtual tach. If not you may need a thin black feeding the tach gauge on the instrument panel.

okay set as virtual tach  no remote start  8 flashes

hooked up small black wire from gauge cluster set to look for tach signal no remote start

tired different combinations of virtual tach, tach,  tach wire, orange wire to acc and pink/white wire to acc 

double checked it was still on auto  no remote start  8 flashes

Did you program tach via the antenna/control centre?

I do not have a bitwriter or anything like that  all I have is the two remotes( one with lcd screen) and the antenna with control button  this is how I have been programing it so far

Program tach:- Start engine, within 10 seconds, press and hold button on antenna/control centre. After about 3 seconds the blue LED will come on, tach programmed. You don't need a bitwriter on this vehicle, electrically it's very straight forward. Try leaving key in the ignition, off position then try the remote. Meanwhile it has gone midnight here and I'm off to sleep.

8 flashes is Neutral Safety Switch open. The blk/wht wire isn't grounded. Or if you're using the switch, it is open. Upon review, I see that you know this and have mentioned that "the switch and blk/wht wire is grounded / working". Unplug the H3 connector from the brain, and check the blk/wht wire for ground with your VOM. 8 flashes means "no neutral", and it won't do squat if the blk/wht isn't grounded. Concentrate your efforts on solving the "8 flashes" by fixing the ground for the blk/wht. Virtual Tach and engine checking comes after it cranks. It can't check to see if it's running if it doesn't even crank.

"Start engine, within 10 seconds, press and hold button on antenna/control centre. After about 3 seconds the blue LED will come on, tach programmed".  Mine says within five seconds but yes I did this

 "Try leaving key in the ignition, off position then try the remote."  I've actually been doing this  I got annoyed with turning the ignition on then off then pulling the key to use the remote that I just left the key in and took the remote off the chain  

"Meanwhile it has gone midnight here and I'm off to sleep." sorry to be eating up all your free time  I do appreciate the help

 

I have been using my power probe up to now it shows positive or negative voltage down to one decimal point. I thought this would work for what I'm doing but if you don't think it is accurate enough for this I will gladly dig out my VOM and use that.  Having said that I did probe the controller at the connectors with the power probe and it did show ground and a signal to and from the neutral switch which cycled with the switch to show it was working 

Does the little switch plug into the brain with its own little 2-pin plug? Or is it inline with the blk/wht wire? If it has its own plug, You might try shorting the two pins together permanently by soldering them together. Eliminate the switch. Same if it's inline, but again, check the blk/wht terminal in the H3 when unplugged from the brain with your VOM. I've had conductors break inside the insulation when I stripped them, but it still worked for awhile after the initial installation. Then it didn't. These little wires are delicate. Until the 8 flashes stop, it isn't going to crank. Keep looking, you'll find it.

the switch has its own black two pin connector  it started raining here and the cars in the drive way so I will have to wait until after work tomorrow to check