Install Wiring - Status Output Wire & Hello

Hello All, I am glad I found this site and I hope I can learn a lot and eventually be able to help others. I have a basic knowledge of car audio installs and basic system electrical but no in depth experience with alarms, remote starters etc... This seems like a great forum and I am happy to be part of it. I have taken on a pet project and the goal is to not only complete this correctly but also lean and understand as well. The project came about when my steering wheel lock & ignition cylinder failed. After 6 months I grew tired of hot wiring my 1999 BMW E39 (528i) and decide to price the parts. $300 - $500 was the average price with mostly used parts, I decided that I could add a passive keyless entry & push to start system for like $200 with the recommended bypass module to override my EWS key chip protection. Well I am now in a pool of water that is mighty deep... I am not drowning yet but barely treading water. I have a few questions that might make it clear in my mind what is going on and allow me to figure this all out. Oh and part of the reason I am lost is because some companies don't give proper manuals or translate to English properly :S Rather than bombard the post with all my issues I will just start off with where I am at now and why I am stuck and go from there. The car is as mentioned above, the keyless entry / push to start system is an Easygaurd EC002 which is a relatively inexpensive Chinese or Korean product but looks good but we will see once installed. I am using a DEI 556UW for my bypass module, which is apparently a common and easy to install product. So I have installed the bypass module according to the instructions and all was good until the last wire. It is a blue wire and it is labeled as an input wire to connect to the (-) Status Output wire of my PKE/RS/PTS unit. The PKE/RS/PTS unit does not tell me what wire this is, or a least my instructions do not make this clear at all.... I want to ask: 1) What is this Status wire for and why do I need it 2) How do I test for / determine which wire on my push to start unit is the Status Output Form what I can tell from reading, it seems this sends a signal to the bypass module while cranking to start, allowing it to override the EWS. Or else it tells it to turn off when the car is running... I have no idea what to search for and the products techs are not replying. Any help, ideas, suggestions are really appreciated. Sorry for my long post. Figure I would just set the scene. Thanks,

A few pointers. First the 556; wire it EUROPEAN method as shown in the instructions, cut into the wires, no loop. Second, the status wire this will be a wire from the push start that goes to ground on selecting ignition. If you show the push start wiring I can work something out for you. Third this car has 3 light green ignition wires, you'll need 2 extra relays. Fourth ACC from the push start needs to go directly to the radio head unit. The ACC in the ignition loom is then wired via another (3rd.) relay as ignition, needs to be live during cranking.

howie ll wrote: A few pointers. First the 556; wire it EUROPEAN method as shown in the instructions, cut into the wires, no loop. Second, the status wire this will be a wire from the push start that goes to ground on selecting ignition. If you show the push start wiring I can work something out for you. Third this car has 3 light green ignition wires, you'll need 2 extra relays. Fourth ACC from the push start needs to go directly to the radio head unit. The ACC in the ignition loom is then wired via another (3rd.) relay as ignition, needs to be live during cranking.

Ok this is great to know. Sounds like you have worked on these before. I was afraid it would not be super simple. I will learn though. I don't know what to do with relays though. I am slo glad you picked up on the 3 green wires cause is the other issue I am dealing with. Apparently one of these is suppose to switch off during cranking and I'm not seeing that. The direct wiring to radio head unit seems strange but I do have a aftermarket unit, does this change anything? I want do this so I will take any support and direction you can offer. I have installed the 556uw as per European install method, still without the blue I do not know if it is working. Here is a link to a guys install notes that was sent to me, it is all the info I have. There are errors in these documents and weird naming of things due to translation. http://s728.photobucket.com/user/taterps/library/Alarm%20Pics?sort=3&page=1 So in the meantime I should get some relays. I await your reply. Thanks,

Here are the pics: I also have a word document with some install notes I could send you via PM or regular email? Thanks,

I've taken a look, you won't like what I have to say, BIN it! I can tell by the instructions especially where it says connect to oil pressure switch that it's a POS. NO responsible manufacturer will use that method, they all use tach sensing. Simply said, it either won't work at all or will be extremely unreliable. It will cost you more but there's a world class company in Canada called Compustar who I believe make something similar. Or use a Viper R/S with an on off for the ignition.

A "proper" system, the only shock is the sticker price:- http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html

Yeah not what I wanted to hear at all. I was thinking the oil line was a reference to the fuel line a some sort of security. Well I am screwed now and cannot refund. I got no method to start my car besides hot wire. Even if I can get this working for a short term fix as I cannot get a new unit for a while. I was actually looking at the advanced as well. Should not have been so cheap. Just read so many good reviews on this cheap one. What do I do man?

A bit cheaper but should be adequate for your vehicle without too many extra bits, relays etc.:- http://www.advancedkeys.com/docs/AK-PSB06.pdf

Start again a simple rule earned through bitter experience, if it says oil pressure as engine speed check, RUN! The other lesson, you get what you pay for!

Yes, I get ya and have learned that lesson before. I am not using this to remote start but rather push start so I am not sure that tach sensing or oil pressure will really be a deal breaker, would you agree? I mentioned above that I my key cylinder and steering lock failed so I just figured I would eliminate those and do a push to start. If I am able to get the immobilizer to work and then get the push to start to simple start the car I will more thank happy. I cannot get a new system for a long time so the only hope of getting my car to run again it to rig something up. I really appreciate your time and advice. Would you consider still helping me with this solution for now? Like if I can just get my immobilizer status code thing figured and then the 3 green power wires I might be ok? I am a desperate man here... Thanks