Power folding mirrors

Thanks for the reply davep. Yes, I have confirmed the pink and blue wires are the motor wires and when I apply 12V to one and ground to the other they do close and when I reverse the wires they open. The switch side wires go into a control module and then come out of the module as different colors and go to the switch. I have never used a 528t before so I have no idea why both engage at the same time. Could it be because I am using the wrong diode? I'll try switching the brown wire to ground as you have suggested and hope that corrects everything. Again, thanks to everyone for your help. I could never do this on my own!

EDIT: PLEASE NOTE A CORRECTION: I suggested to temporarily connect the timer brown wires to ground. This is INCORRECT. Connect the timer ORANGE wires to ground. (Switch wires disconnected). Timer brown to B+ Timer yellow to motor.

djhemmen wrote: when I apply 12V to one and ground to the other they do close and when I reverse the wires they open.

Ok, cool. You have the motor wires. I was just checking. The next thing to try is temporarily connect the timer ORANGE wires to ground. (Leave the switch wires disconnect for now). Separate the timer trigger wires. Work on getting the timers to operate the mirrors. The cut-loop trigger should open, the other close. Captain Obvious, here. Get the triggers sorted out. ( I don't think you can use diodes in the trigger inputs, or the trigger won't see the polarity reverse. I could be wrong, but I would try the gtimers without diodes in the triggers). At this point, the mirrors should be folding on the timers. But the switch is inoperative. See if you can get this far. Ie get the timers to operate the fold as desired, with the orange wires to ground. This will confirm two things: That the triggers, timers, and wiring is sorted. And that the switch does NOT rest at ground. Get this part of it working, report back, and we'll add relays to provide the ground for the opposite leg when on a timer. This will restore the switch's operation.

howie ll wrote: Thanks DAVE it does help me, very busy at the moment and I missed the part about both activating at once. WHAAAT? Also about resting at ground, since they are DATA to door module to mirrors you might be right. Only ever seen rest on open on the REAR door locks on London Taxis, the fronts were NEG switched. LURCH what GWA?? Have I missed some part about there being an alarm in this thread? PS Lurch if there was an alarm or RS I'd have used aux outputs linked to arm and disarm as timed circuits with standard relays and forget 528 and 535, unnecessary expense.

Oops. For some reason was thinking there was a alarm involved my bad. LOL Lost track of which Thread is which.

Try this using a relay and 2 diodes. Wire 86 and 87 to ignition, 85 and 87a to ground, and 30 to 2 diodes the 1st diode band towards the 528T with the cut blue loop and 2nd diode to 528T with uncut blue loop with the band away from the 528T. This should eliminate the change state from activating both 528T at the same time. When ignition is on 528T cut loop gets +12v second dosen't due to diode blocking. When ignition is off 528T uncut loop get Ground and first dosen't due to blocking diode.

lurch228 wrote: When ignition is on 528T cut loop gets +12v second dosen't due to diode blocking. When ignition is off 528T uncut loop get Ground and first dosen't due to blocking diode.

I don't see how this can work. The diodes rectify the trigger. The timer will never "see" the opposite polarity. It needs to have a leading or falling edge. The diode prevents the trigger from changing state. What am I missing? I've never messed with these timers, nor do I have one to take to the bench and dic with to figure it out. Perhaps I'll buy one just to tinker with it. Keep in mind I'm casually interested in this subject because I intend to fit auto-fold to my Super Duty mirrors. The timers seem to have merit, but look to be a bit fussy. This thread's Audi is also part of the fussiness as no one participating actually KNOWS how the OEM circuit functions. we're having to go on the findings of the OP. We're getting there.

They will see a change of state from 0v (open) to 12v on one and 0V (open) to Ground (earth) on the other. Whether it be constant +12v or a pulse, same goes for Ground (earth). No different than a door trigger is open then when door is opened it's a Negative or Positive. Relay pin 30 will be ground when not engerized and postive when engerized from ignition being on, the diodes block according to band direction either + or -.

@howie II, @lurch228, @davep. With all of your help I think I may have figured out the problem! @davep. I wired everything the way you said to in your post "EDIT" post on page 5. It appears there are 2 problems preventing everything from working properly. 1st problem is that the switch side wires don't rest at ground(as you mentioned). They show .03V when the car is off and .02V when the car is on. The 2nd problem is when I turn on the car, the ignition wire quickly goes from 0V to 12V when the key hits the Ignition position but the volts drop during the cranking position and then go back to 12V when the car is started and running. This is why the uncut 528t is triggering when its only supposed to trigger when turning the ignition off(upon receiving negative). Its sees the quick negative and triggers which then puts voltage to both the open and close motor wires at the same time. How can I fix the 2 final problems? Thanks again for all your guys help!

The relay with diodes will isolate each 528T to positive and negative trigger from ignition. If the ignition voltage is dropping enough to trigger the 2nd 528T with the relay and diodes setup hook only 86 to ignition and 87 to constant +12v to eliminate the ignition voltage drop as it wont be enough to cause the relay to drop out.

You have ignition 2, drops on cranking, you need ignition 1 doesn't drop on crank, I think it's black but I'll check.

You have ignition 2, takes no part in engine start runs things like headlights, HVAC. Therefore it drops out on crank. You need ignition 1 Black, ignition switch or front fuse box, may also be BLACK/ blue.