Relay problem, Brain Dead

Here's the situation.......... I need a relay set up that will allow me to press a button and activate a device until it has stopped. The device will continue to move until I remove my finger from the button and automatically stops when it has reached it's end. Here's where I need some help from you guys......

Now I need to reverse the device the other way with the same button ( trigger ) by reversing the two wires. Much like a door lock actuator when you reverse the wires it pushes or pulls. Let me know what you think and this is for a JDM folding power mirror if your curious of the " device "

Hey Velocity,

I might have seen something that might help you.  I do mean might.  I'm not extremely technical in this field but I ran across something the other day.  It was like a wig wag relay sorta.  But it was mechanical.  When the coil is energized it powers one pole until it's deenergized.  When the coil is energized again it powers the other pole.  It works mechanically.  But it alternates between the poles.  I guess that's the best way I can explain it.  I'll find out the part number and tell you if you think something like this would help.  I hope that I help a little.  Just trying to return the favor. 

HEY VELOCIY ANY SUGESTIONS ON THE INFINITY?

I HAVE WIRING FOR IT I CAN TELL WHATEVER YOU NEED TO HELP ME OUT I NEED THE WINDOWS TO GO UP OR DOWN. THE DOOR TRIGER WIRES FROM THE KEY CYLINDER CONTROL WINDOWS IF I PULSE ONCE THE ALARM IN THE CAR WILL DISARM AND IF I PULSE IT 2 TIMES THE DOORS WILL UNLOCK IF I CONTINUE THE PULSE WINDOWS WILL GO DOWN OR UP. I HAVE 2 MODULES FOR THIS CAR BUT IF I DONT HAVE TO USE THEM ID LIKE THAT.

IF I DO USE THEM DO I HAVE TO GO IN EVERY DOOR FO RTHIS SYTEM TO WORK?

HOW ABOUT THE DOOR LOCKS DO I NEED TO GO TO THE KEY CYLINDER OR CAN I GET IT AT THE BCM? ANY HELP PLEASE.

Hey Mobiletoys;

The G35 is such a new vehicle.... I haven't had the opportunity to work on one of these beasts yet. From what you have written what you need to do is to have a single pulse and a extended second pulse to mimic the OEM system. Does all the windows go down when you unlock the car ? Does all the windows go up when you lock the car the same way ? According to what my latest info on a I35 says about the door locks and the windows, you may have to go straight to the switch for the 3 doors and go to the passenger door for the passenger door for the windows. You amy have to use the modules as this would be easier than trying to a extended second pulsed circuit ( unless the alarm has one already, then your set. )

This may or may not help; it at least may be a starting point for you...

Below is the original text that accompanied the image (I got it from somewhere on the Web):

The circuit below requires a double pole, double throw relay in conjunction with a single transistor to allow toggling the relay with a momentary push button. One set of relay contacts is used to control the load, while the other is used to provide feedback to keep the relay activated or deactivated. Several push buttons can be wired in parallel to allow toggling the relay from different locations.

In the deactivated state, the relay contacts are arranged so the 1000 uF capacitor will charge to about 2.7 volts. When the switch is closed, the capacitor voltage is applied to the transistor base through a 560 resistor causing the transistor to turn on and activate the relay. In the activated state, the relay contacts are arranged so the 3.3K resistor and 560 ohm resistor provide a continous current to the transistor base maintaining the activated state. While in the activated state, the capacitor is allowed to discharge to zero through the 1K resistor. When the switch is again closed, the capacitor will cause the transistor base to move toward ground deactivating the relay.

The circuit has three distinct advantages, it requires only a few parts, always comes up with the relay deactivated, and doesn't need any switch debouncing. However since the capacitor will begin charging as soon as the button is depressed, the button cannot remain depressed too long to avoid re-engaging the relay. This problem can be minimized with an additional resistor connected from the transistor base to ground so that the base voltage is close to 0.7 volts with the button depressed and the transistor is biased in the linear region. With the button held down, the relay coil voltage should be somewhere between the pull in and drop out voltages so that the relay will maintain the last toggled state. This worked out to about 820 ohms for the circuit I built using a 12 volt, 120 ohm relay coil and 2N3053 transistor. Temperature changes will effect the situation but the operation is still greatly improved. I heated the transistor with a hair dryer and found that the relay will re-engage with the button held down for approximately 1 second, but this is not much of a problem under normal operation.

Hey Mobiletoys, you should be able to grab the wires at the BCM without any problems because the Infinity uses (-) type A systems so you will be able to grab at BCM. As far as the windows go...... best bet is to use the window modules especially if all 4 windows do not roll down or up at the same time.

Pickle;

Do you know how long the discharge time is for the configuration that you have above ? I need the reverse polarity discharge of the one relay to be at least 3-5 seconds in order for the set up to work.

Velocity-

The impression I got from the text is that it is just a relay toggle...apply power to the circuit and the relay comes up de-energized.  Press the momentary switch (though only one is needed, the diagram shows two, in case you need/want to toggle the relay from multiple locations) and the relay energizes and latches on.  Press the momentary switch again and the relay de-energizes and stays off.  Press it again and it latches on, etc.  I've not wired the circuit myself, yet, so I can't say for sure, but looking at the schematic, I'd say that it does exactly that...

I'm thinking that you could use the common contact (immediately to the right of the coil in the schematic) to go to switched 12VDC, and the NC and NO leads to each power a separate relay coil.  Each of the relays that would be powered from the circuit above would then have the "constant-to-momentary" setup shown elsewhere on this site, but with a higher-value capacitor (how much exactly would depend upon the current draw of the relays you'll be using and the time you need for each to be energized...) to increase the time (I think it was about 1/2 second) to the 3-5 seconds you need.  You probably already know this, but if you've got some really huge caps, you can connect a cap in series with a resistor and get pretty close to whatever time you need by figuring TIME=Resistance(in Ohms) multiplied by Capacitance(in Farads).  Variable resistors come in handy...