the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2005 Tacoma remote start problems


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:38 AM / IP Logged  
hmm...when you say data link connector are you talking about the ODBII connector or the connector at the ECM?
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:58 AM / IP Logged  
The data link connector is under the driver side dash pin #9
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 14, 2006 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged  
OK well when i use the tach finder mode on my alarm it does not work...i need to find another tach reference wire that actually works
nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 6:37 AM / IP Logged  

I did check the brake...it does turn unit on and off..i even put a diode on it so it wouldnt get any feedback from car...hooked up keysense wire and 556u w/diode...and.....still doing the same thing.  I moved the ground this morning but I don't think that is the problem becuase it still locks and unlocks

I do not get any lights flashing nothing at all...it just locks the doors...it doesnt turn ignition on..seems like if i open and then close the door it works fine

But I am only having this issue after it was been sitting for awhile..so i don't know what the deal is.  Any other ideas?

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 7:16 AM / IP Logged  
Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with this thing.
It's time to actualy troubleshoot, and find & correct the source of the problem.........just throwing different ideas at it doesn't help.
You do have some sort of circuit tester, right? People here are always debating test light vs. LED test light vs. multimeter.....but we can try to save the debate for another time........ you do have something to test with, correct?
1. You need access to the system for testing, but you also need to duplicate the problem.
First, drop the brain down from wherever you've put it, so you can easily probe all of the plugs with your tester...... don't unplug or modify it, just drop it to the floor.
Next, Unbolt the driver's doorpin switch, so it is no longer operative. Open a window so you can't be locked out.
Third, Get your circuit tester ready.
Fourth, arm the alarm, go make a sandwich or something, and wait until the system no longer works.
Fifth, test EVERY wire at the brain for proper function, paying particular attention to the brake, hood, and remote-start-control-switch inputs. Something must be wrong.
--------------------------------
A few thoughts:
--Like Velocity Motors said, tach is better. But those trucks will start tachless too.
At any rate, temporarily running tachless is a good troubleshooting tool; it rules that out as a possible source of the problem.
Also, typically, a wrong tach wire will NOT cause the problem you describe. It may have trouble starting, but the ignition would at least still come on.
--Toyotas with immobilizer key: If your immobilizer bypass is incorrect, the ignition will still work and the starter will crank; the engine just won't start. Sounds like this is not your problem.
--Toyotas with factory alarm: Even without the keysense wire, it'll remote-start and run fine; the alarm will sound, that's all. Even if you did have an alarm....this isn't your problem.
--Remote start not coming on at all: This often means that one of the safety inputs is being tripped. Hoodpin, brake, control switch, would all cause this----check them carefuly.
Even if you didn't install all of the safety features, still doesn't mean the wire isn't shorted out to something else by mistake.
You might try tempoarily disconnecting the hood and brake wires, and see if that makes a difference.....although simply testing them would be easier.
--Does your remote starter have what's usually called an "activation input?" That's a wire that, if you jump it to ground for a moment, causes the remote starter to come on....
If it won't respond to your remotes, try the activation input; does that work all the time? If so, time to consider the antenna, antenna cable, remote, or brain.
--How come you ran the constant power wire to the battery? There is no need for it, although it can't hurt. You should have an inline fuse, preferably in a waterproof holder, under the hood near the battery.
nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 8:01 AM / IP Logged  

First off, i would like to say thank you very much for the great feedback.....

OK  I actually disconnected the brake and hoodpin the other day with no luck..

Today, I have it in tachless mode with tach wire disconnected, diode on brake switch so system does not get any feedback, diodes on keysense and 556U(even though I really don't think I need this keysense since I do not have factory alarm)..

I did disconnect every door trigger connection (3 of them) Going to see what happens in a few hours.. Wonder if this could be causing the issue?

nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 12:35 PM / IP Logged  
Woohoo...I found the problem...I disconnected my door trigger wires and let it sit for about 3 hours.  Remote started and all worked well....So it was narrowed down to being the door trigger wires that Crimestopper told me to use.....Upon checking this site I found the door ajar circuit and tapped into that.  So far all is working well..Have to wait until I leave to make sure it is actually working fine, but so far so good.  I removed all door trigger wires and only using the door ajar circuit wire located at the instrument cluster.  Thank you for all your help!!  If you do no hear from me anymore you know its working!!
nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 4:45 PM / IP Logged  

Well the door ajar circuit doesn't work either  :(

Trying the dome light circuit now...lets keep our fingers crossed xxxxxxxx

diva 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged  

it sounds like a similar problem i had in an 05 sequoia.  i ended up having to hook the keysense wire to the blue -status output wire with a diode.   try that but just make sure your diode's facing the right direction which off the top of my head i can't remember but i think if it's neg, then the stripe would be to the car? don't quote me on that part.  some dei products will read anything less than 4v as ground so make sure you grab the door triggers at the door pin switches and diode isolate all, as far as parking lights, is there a jumper to switch the polarity on the brain?  sorry if any of these answers are repeated, i didn't read through all the replies

nokia15291 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posted: February 16, 2006 at 6:15 AM / IP Logged  

Already did that no luck.......

OK  Well I have the door trigger hooked to the dome light supervision circuit now...The thing is it doesn't think a door is opened are the alarm would go off, right?  This is not the case....could it be battery voltage dropping too low after it is resting for a while and it just wont even try to start?  Maybe I should try disconnecting unit from battery and wait 3-4 hours..hook it back up and see what happens? 

Page of 4

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, April 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer