08 tacoma, remote starter, immobilizer

Hmmm..   I want to start with 3 lock pushes on the factory fob.  I don't understand why you mention the need for 2 pulses.

Has anyone out there who has done a Tacoma run into problems with the purple door lock wire?

Like I say, if I ground the (-) WHITE/ blue activation wire 3 times myself, the RS starts the truck up.   Also, if I use the key in the door to lock 3 times, the RS works also since my multimeter reads the purple going down to 0V.  However, if I use the factory fob my multimeter shows only a brief drop of a few volts and the RS doesn't start up the truck.   

Anyone?

alright, do what techman said. use a relay, but no need for the capacitor because u dont need a double pulse. wire like so

Relay terminal

85 - Constant 12v fused @ 5 amps

Thanks for the advice fellas.

I'll try the relay this afternoon on the negative door lock purple wire using the 561T WHITE/ blue activation wire.  If that fails, I'll try the positive door lock motor wire using the 561T WHITE/ red activation wire. 

Yeah, I agree.  I should have spent more money on a system with a remote for the range and the unlocking :(

I'll have it all figured out by the time our first big cold spell goes away up here in Alberta.

My valet 561T install was progressing nicely except for a problem with getting factory fob lock to activate RS.

To test the 561T I was grounding the WHITE/ blue negative activation wire.  The truck would start up no problem.  Tested shutdowns, changed some features, started it several times.  End of day, left it that way.

Now a few days later (didn't drive truck in-between) the RS won't work at all.  I don't hear any clicking at all from the relays inside when I ground the activation wire to start.  Tried positive pulses to WHITE/ red activation wire but nothing either.

The neutral switch is grounded when on and BLACK/ white tests ok, not using hood pin so thats left open, power to 2 reds ok, black ground ok, brake press gives high.

I can enter programming mode and see the LED's flash the feature number.   I have never been able to get into diagnostic mode.  This is even when RS was working fine and I'd test shutdown eg. with brake  (ign off, hold program, ign on then off, release program, press and release program again).

 I am using a seperate relay for the second starter wire.  No diode across coil.  Think that could be a factor?

Opened it up and nothing looks unusual and I use to do failure analysis at IBM.    No tools to debug now (other than a fluke) nor the time.

What do you think?     Without the relays clicking what can a guy do?

 Thanks in advance for your time!

Anyone?  Any chance I've inadvertently changed a programming feature or something??

Oh well, I've given up until I get another 561 :(

Happy New Year everyone.

Just to close out the topic... here is an update.

Got a new "brain" but instead of a 561T replacement I put in a 561R for the reasons everybody mentioned (range of RS, power locks). 

Of course the 561T and 561R are the same less the remote so it plugged right into my existing wiring work.

Started first time :)

So,  I definitely ruined the 561T brain somehow when I was trying to get it to start using factory fob / door lock wire and playing around with blue (-) and red (+) activation wires.

Thanks to those who helped me out!  Next project is the same 561R into a 2005 CR-V.  Don't worry, I'll search for the wiring diagram before starting a new thread to ask what has probably already been asked before.

Cheers!