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2002 ex accord, python 900 alarm


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natsys 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 03, 2007 at 8:09 AM / IP Logged  
Did you have to hook up your alarm arm and disarm wires? I have a 2002 Accord, but its only an LX so it doesn't have factory alarm, but my 91 Acura Legend had the factory alarm and after I connected the whole remote start and it worked great a problem developed with the alarm. Apparently the factory alarm sets automatically about 1 minute after the doors lock. So, when I was testing everything I never waited a full minute and never set off the alarm. When I tried a R/S after the car had been sitting long enough for the alarm to set, it would not start and the horn and lights would go off. I had to go back to connect the arm/disarm of the remote starter to the factory alarm. Any issues with your factory installed alarm?
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: December 03, 2007 at 8:45 AM / IP Logged  
natsys wrote:
Did you have to hook up your alarm arm and disarm wires? I have a 2002 Accord, but its only an LX so it doesn't have factory alarm, but my 91 Acura Legend had the factory alarm and after I connected the whole remote start and it worked great a problem developed with the alarm. Apparently the factory alarm sets automatically about 1 minute after the doors lock. So, when I was testing everything I never waited a full minute and never set off the alarm. When I tried a R/S after the car had been sitting long enough for the alarm to set, it would not start and the horn and lights would go off. I had to go back to connect the arm/disarm of the remote starter to the factory alarm. Any issues with your factory installed alarm?
The alarm and disarm for the factory alarm disarms and arms with the locks. I had to run a wire into the drivers door and connect to a blue wire which has the factory alarm disarm but does not unlock the doors. I did this because I did not want to have the alarm unlock - start - lock.
Its a PITA to run a wire into the door, I can't believe how stupid the door grommets are and you can be sure I was cursing the hell out of it. I still have to run wires into the door for my window module, but I will wait until it gets warmer out.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 03, 2007 at 9:37 AM / IP Logged  
im sure the window wires ae located in kick panel as well.
frunkis 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2007
Posted: December 03, 2007 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged  
tedmond wrote:
im sure the window wires ae located in kick panel as well.
Well from the instructions I read that came with the window module was to interrupt the wire from the switch to the motor for each window to allow the one touch option to function which I guess would mean I would have to hit both doors to have both windows as a 1 touch option.
natsys 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 03, 2007 at 3:20 PM / IP Logged  
Actually........did one of those on my 91 Legend as well--previous owner LIED about the factory one-touch feature working. New Acura master switch: $325.00; New DEI one touch for 2 windows: $50.00. (Smacking the crap out of the previous owner--if I could do it--priceless!)
You only have to go into the driver's door, but you DO have to go in the driver's door. The switch that controls the driver's window doesn't go into the car and back out to the window motor--it goes directly from the switch to the motor. While you're there you can access the wires from the master switch to the passenger window. The only drawback is that you'll only have one-touch from the master controls and not from the individual control on the passenger door.
To fish the wires use a small stiff wire--I use steel MIG welding wire--and bend it back on itself so there's a dull point. Push that through the boot first--it helps if you can pull the boot away from the car body and first fish through the kick panel to the outside and then through the boot. Then, once one end of the wire is inside the door and the other is inside the car, pull the wires you want to. I select one wire and make a loop with the fish wire and interlock it with a loop made from the wire I want to pull and tape them up good--go 4 or 5 inches up both wires. Then I tape the other wires to the first one making a good tight wrap. What makes it all work real slick is to next slather on some hand soap to the whole taped part. Pull your fish wire through into the door and the rest of the wires should follow along. My legend had the window module wires, 10 guage speaker wires for the 5 1/4" speakers, 16 gauge speaker wires for the tweeters, and 2 more 16 gauge wires for the arm/disarm of the remote start--and there was plenty of room for them all--getting them through was the hardest part, but it isn't impossible.
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