audiovox aps 620 in '01 caravan

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qtrmimike

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 24, 2007

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: December 27, 2007 at 3:28 PM / IP Logged

I am starting to understand why they say remote starts are best left to the experts audiovox aps 620 in '01 caravan -- posted image. . I thought I was pretty good at electrical until this project humbled me.

I have everything hooked up ( I think anyway ). The unit found the tach signal rather quickly and starts and runs without the remote start.

The first problem I have is the Red w/ White trace wire on the main power harness blows a fuse when I try to start with the remote. According to the installation manual, this is a 12V + source that provides power for the control circuit as well as the ign 1 and ign 2 relays (which must be inside the control module). I have connected this wire to the battery.

The second issue is I cannot get the remote to lock or unlock the doors. I am using relays with resistance based on the diagrams. I can hear the relays clicking, but no action with the locks. I am wired to connector 3 pin 21 on BCM (PURPLE / green).

I appreciate everyone's help and patience with me.

Mike

techman93

Silver - Posts: 591

Joined: October 28, 2006

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: December 27, 2007 at 7:52 PM / IP Logged

Power Unlock VIOLET/DRK.GR (-) PIN 21 AT BCM,GRND THROUGH 2K OHM RES.

PowerLock VIOLET/DRK.GR (-) PIN 21 AT BCM,GRND THROUGH 5.3K OHM RES.

USE 4020 OHM RESISTOR WITH FACTORY ALARM/665 OHM WITHOUT

The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

qtrmimike

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 24, 2007

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: December 27, 2007 at 9:03 PM / IP Logged

This is why I am so bothered by this...It is connected with the resistance that is listed, 2K and 5.3K. I can hear my relays clicking, but nothing from the door locks. I confirmed the right pin on the BCM. Thanks again for the input

Mike

techman93

Silver - Posts: 591

Joined: October 28, 2006

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: December 27, 2007 at 11:15 PM / IP Logged

if it doesnt have factory alarm use 665 ohm resistor on lock.

make sure value is within 5% and not much more because resistance needs to be really close.

The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.

Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

This member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: December 28, 2007 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged

got your relays wire up right? you will wire up 2 for unlock and lock.

85 - constant 12

86 - lock or unlock

87 - ground with resistance in line.

30 - to lock or unlock wire on car.

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: December 28, 2007 at 12:47 PM / IP Logged

Ok, as for your two questions:

1. The RED / white feeds the brain itself, and also the Ignition 1 (blue) and Ignition 2 (green) outputs. Right now, where are the blue and green connected?

2. Leaving the relays aside, just take the wire from the car, and using a jumper wire, what happens if you apply chassis ground, through the resistor, to the wire on the car?

Have you first tested that this wire changes state when you operate the locks? Pin number at the BCM isn't reliable enough; every wire on an installation should be tested.

qtrmimike

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 24, 2007

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: December 28, 2007 at 1:31 PM / IP Logged

Here is the good news.....the door locks are now working !!

The remote start is still blowing the 30A fuse on the red white.

Chris, the blue and green are both directly connected to the Pink/White wire at the ignition harness at the steering column. Is that correct?? This is really aggravating.....lol. I have an Excel spreadsheet showing where I have all the wires connected that I could email if it would help. Let me know.

I disconnected the starter (yellow wire) from the yellow wire on the main power harness and still the fuse is blowing on the RED / white wire. I really appreciate any insight. I know that I am close to having this, but this is giving me fits.

Thanks, Mike

usabuilt

Copper - Posts: 161

Joined: September 11, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: December 28, 2007 at 2:45 PM / IP Logged

I would check all the wires that it feeds. ign ect and make sure they are not connected to the wrong wire on the ign switch, check with a meter and be sure they are not groung wires or pinched somewhere.

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: December 30, 2007 at 9:54 AM / IP Logged

Having the 620's blue and green both connected to the same place is redundant, and unnecessary, but also shouldn't hurt anything.

But anyway, what you read in the manual is correct......the RED / white feeds the control circuit, and the relays for the green and blue ignition wires.

Here's how I would troubleshoot:

1. Disconnect the blue and green wires from the car.

Also, inspect the entire length of these wires where you routed them, and make sure they're not chafed through and rubbing against body metal, or have a screw accidentally driven through them, things like that.

2. Activate the remote start. (Of course it can't start the car with the wires disconnected, but try it anyway. When you want it to shut off, just hit the brake.)

If the fuse still blows, the unit must be defective.

If fuse doesn't blow, the remote start must be good, and your blue or green wire was shorted to ground somehow.

-----------------

Here's how I do Caravans. The interface at the ignition switch is quite simple, and doesn't require relays or resistors or anything.

Red, and RED / white: I cut off one of the fuse holders, and jump one onto the other (on the "brain" side of the fuse), so the two wires are now sharing one fuse. I then remove the 30-amp fuse, install a 7.5, and catch my power right at the blue/red at the ignition switch.

Running your power wires out to the battery, and keeping the two original fuses, is more labor-intensive, but doesn't hurt anything.

From there:

Blue from 620: pink/white ignition on car

Green from 620: nothing

Purple from 620: nothing

Yellow from 620: yellow start wire on car

Also, BLACK / YELLOW "pulse during start" from 620: PURPLE / brown wire at keyswitch.

No relay, no resistor, no diode....just hook it up straight.....the BLACK / YELLOW is low-current, and just weak enough to simulate the 180 ohms that the car wants.

If you fail to connect anything to the PURPLE / brown on the car, the remote starter will only work about half the time. (But, it would simply fail....it would NOT blow fuses, so that's not what your problem is right now.)

P.S. Where is the WHITE/ red parking light input, with the 15-amp fuse, connected? Is it jumpered onto the RED / white to catch constant power? Are all of your parking light connections complete, and do the parking lights flash correctly with lock and unlock?

Regardless, Temporarily remove the 15-amp fuse, to rule that out as a possiblility of the cause of your problem.

qtrmimike

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 24, 2007

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: December 30, 2007 at 12:29 PM / IP Logged

Chris:

Great news !! The remote start is working. With the green wire disconnected, the fuse does not blow and the remote start works. THANKS for all the help!!

The last question I have is : How do you normally have the parking lights relayed? The lights do not flash with the lock/unlock function. I have them wired per the Direct tech tip :

86 : 12 V constant

85 : WHITE/ red from parking light 3 pin harness

87 : 2.1K resistor to ground

87A : white brown at headlight switch

30 : white brown at BCM (pin 18 on C5 connector)

Thanks again for ALL the help this site offers, you guys are a blessing !!!

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