stereo issues

Oh my!

Use 18 guage for your cabin speakers.  Its much, much easier to work with and it won't make any sort of a sonically detectable difference, even with that Eclipse amp.

Oh yea.

This is sort of like shoving a stick of RAM onto your motherboard while the computer is running and then wondering how the BIOS got scrambled. 

The concept isn't about what amp you touched, it is more about the fact that you induced some huge, unexpected, and apparently totally uncontrolled voltage spike into your electrical system back there.  While it doesn't speak too highly of your amps (I betcha a well built JL woulda handled that ok, I've done worse to mine) the problem doesn't suprise me one bit.  

You don't mention it really, but you've checked your fuses?  That would be the cheapest thing here.  Do the amplifiers actually turn on or are they just dead?

Seriously man, in theory you could have fried your car's ECU doing that.  Wayyy more expensive than an amp.  You should have DISCONNECTED YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL BEFORE GOING ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR AMPLIFIER WIRING.

I'm going to say that again, because you don't seem like you take many safety precautions.

DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL BEFORE TOUCHING YOUR AMPLIFIERS.

For good sakes man, next time you work on your car get some safety goggles and a helmet.

Ok, where am I going to start with all this...

"Use 18 guage for your cabin speakers.  Its much, much easier to work with and it won't make any sort of a sonically detectable difference, even with that Eclipse amp."  - The wires are already ran, so this was a useless statement. It is already in the car...

"Seriously man, in theory you could have fried your car's ECU doing that.  Wayyy more expensive than an amp.  You should have DISCONNECTED YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL BEFORE GOING ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR AMPLIFIER WIRING. " - Fry my cars ECU from shorting speaker outputs - not hardly. Possibly from grounding them out I would think, but not just from shorting the speaker outputs. I know to disconnect the battery when playing working on electrical equipment on cars(there was something about that in my ASE classes), but why would I go through all that trouble to do that when all I was disconnecting just SPEAKE WIRES??? There were NO open ended power wires anywhere, and I was not anywhere near any amps. All I unhooked was some speaker leads from my sub box. Who normally disconnects the battery when unhooking speaker wires? While I understand I should have had the system off before doing this(error on my part), there is no way I am disconnecting the battery to swap a speaker

The only reason I was upset about that post was because the comments given were not helpful whatsoever - how is telling me I only need smaller wire than what I have when I already have the wire ran going to help me, or anyone else? It was just a useless statement and should not have been posted IMHO. Also, there was incorrect information contained in that post regarding the ECU thing and then the instructions to disconnect the battery when hooking up speakers - lol! But I harbor no hard feelings, and perhaps I was a bit too harsh, and I apologize...

^^^ But it was partially this part of the post that wized me off - like I'm some kind of dumb a55 who has no idea what he's doing. It just seemed as though he didn't take the time to read and UNDERSTAND what I wrote in my OP. It seemed like he thought I was fooling with and shorted the power wires or something...

I am using the DCX-730 (digital processor) to set x-overs/time alignment/EQ/level matching/ect. The tweeters blowing is not my problem - I know why they blew and that issue has been fixed. I will not be going back from active to passive x-overs - that is not an option. The processor has all the tuning elements needed for the entire system, even for when I go 3-way.

My issue is I need to know if/how shorting speaker leads on one amp can effect other amps in the system - that is why I posted up my entire system layout in the OP for anyone who would like to try and diagnose the problem. I didn't have much time to search around for anything the other day, so I don't know if the amps are coming on or not - I know this is relative information, but I posted up what I have at the moment.

You spent a sentence or so complaining about the difficulty you had wiring through your door molex.  I was trying to give you a tip for the future - "stitch in time saves nine" or whatever.  I'm sorry this advice didn't fix your amps.  I was trying to be helpful.

Well.  Given that your amps are broken, maybe you'd re-evaluate your logic?

For the record, disconnecting the battery when working on amps is sort of like wearing a motorcycle helmet - it is probably unneeded 95% of the time.  You do it incase you try to hook something up and something stops working . .

Please keep in mind that had you followed this simple, two-minute step, your amps would be working now.

Since you complain about me not carefully reading your OP, I find it odd that you didn't carefully read mine.

Let's disect this sentence.  IN THEORY was the phrasing I used.  I carefully chose this phrasing because I agree that IN PRACTICE this is a very unlikely outcome.

However, if you genuinely believe that inducing an uncontrolled 100-amp voltage spike in your cars electrical system does not have the potential to fry your vehicle's electronics, then you didn't pay much attention in your ASE classes.  I agree that fuses and what-not should prevent this, and damaging the car itself is an unlikely - but possible - outcome. 

You seem to believe you "hooked up a speaker" like you plugged in a cigarette lighter or something.  You hooked up paralleled subwoofers - electrically speaking we would call this a significant load - to a cheesy, poorly built amplfier with what I assume is minimalist internal construction, which is artificially grafted onto the vehicles electrical subsystem - WHILE IN ACTIVE OPERATION.

What you did was suddenly induce a huge voltage spike with a cheesy amplifier, creating so many possibilities of electric gremlins etc., we don't really have anything to go on.  You say yourself you haven't metered anything, don't know if the amps are even turning on, and haven't checked your fuses. 

I'm the unhelpful one?

I mean, you ran full range to Focal tweeters off an Eclipse amp, and did so knowingly.  My conclusion wasn't that your are a dumb a55, but probably inexperienced or simply unknowledgable.  Given the huge price tag associated with your equipment list, I assumed your lack of precautions and very foolish wiring scheme were results of that (apparent) inexperience. 

Again, you indicate a huge number of installation choices that anyone experienced simply wouldn't make.  I try to skew my advice to the person recieving it - in your case a good stern reminder of safety precations seemed appropriate. 

I didn't mean to insult ya, but good god man, go back and re-read your OP and try to imagine someone elses' conclusions.  I was, in a rather obtuse fashion I admit, trying to save YOU money and time and frusteration. 

Ok, I will admit I may have taken this a bit out of context, but to be fair I think after hearing me admit it was such a PITA I would probably not do it agian, but I can absolutely understand what you are saying here - this one was my fault...

A 100a voltage spike? While that statement doesn't even make sense, where did 100a come from? It was one speaker output(I must have some badass 14ga wire if it is handling 100a, and I really have a kick ass POS Audiobahn amp. And it "could theroretically" take a static discharge to wipe out the ECU - doesn't mean it does or everwill.  And it was nowhere near a "huge voltage spike" I was definately not blasting the volume when only attempting to verify that the drivers were working.

Yet agian, you did not thouroughly read my post; I CURRENTLY have the Focal tweets installed in my system, running off the Orion amp, the signal to which is processesed by the DCX-730 -  I have NEVER ran a fullrange signal to these tweeters - and the only reason I did before is because I was running off the stock wiring - which I am no longer doing because I have REWIRED my system with that huge, PITA to run 14ga wire.  I knew when I put the crappy set of tweets in running parallel with the mids that they would blow, but I had to have some form of highs, and the old ones were cheap and I didn't care.

Perhaps I may have overdone it in my initial response, but I do not need to be talked down to. And you DID misconstrue several aspects of my initial post - which was most of why I was so bothered by your reply.