must start with key before remote

customak47 wrote: sounds like to me you are using a dei remote starter and the voltage sense needs to be set to low voltage sense or shut the engine checking off.

I am using a wintec lea-825. Even when the tach wire is hooked up, there is no programming for it.

can you see the injectors? if you can their should be two wires coming off each one. one wire will be common on each one the other wire will be differnt on each one. Any of the other color wires will work for a tach signal.1 12" mtx 9500 4ohm dvc 1 8100d and 1 1501d almost loud enough to cover the sounds of my car dying.

I tried that also, I got like 14.something volts when the ignition came on, then it goes to 0, then back to 14.something when it starts. I thought that would work, but it still didn't accept it. The start was unsuccessful.

if u don't want to hook up tach than try to go into the program menu and change the setting <5v or >5v before start. if that doesn't work than u gotta hook up tachalarm king

The remote start does not have the option for tach or tachless mode, it automatically senses voltage noise or tach signal.

To test for the proper tachometer reference you need to set your meter to AC voltage. Hook the black lead of your meter to ground and probe the wire you think is the tachometer wire with the red. If it is the proper wire you will see a noticeable fluctuation of voltage directly related to engine rpm. In the 99 Grand Am you can grab the tachometer wire at the ECM under the driver's dash to the left of the column, it will be either white or PURPLE / white. Going under the hood for the tachometer the wire will be at the ignition coil.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

i really don't understand this forum. you ask for help and you decline to listen. these people are giving you good advice. First, use some sort of bypass kit on your car. They are correct. It cannot be removed. After you have done so, let everyone know what method you used if the problem persists.

pbrian37 wrote: i really don't understand this forum. you ask for help and you decline to listen. these people are giving you good advice. First, use some sort of bypass kit on your car. They are correct. It cannot be removed. After you have done so, let everyone know what method you used if the problem persists.

If it cannot be done, why does it work when it is warm out? I am not trying to decline any advice, but I have already eliminated the factory security on my car and the RS will work under certain conditions. It works perfectly when started normally, and works perfectly after I have driven my car at some point in the day. Just not when it has sat for a long period of time in very cold weather. Unless this is some feature of the factory security that I am unaware of, I am convinced that it is not the fault of the factory security. If it never worked, I would believe it was the security problem, and if it didn't behave differently now than it did when the factory security was enabled I would believe it was the security problem.

it really sounds like a passkey issue tho. You said you didnt have to use any sort of a bypass you just cut the security wire?1 12" mtx 9500 4ohm dvc 1 8100d and 1 1501d almost loud enough to cover the sounds of my car dying.

I had a Cobalt earlier this yr that would remote start one out of ten times and stay running- traced it back to improper security bypass-- I think you have the same issue- just that timing is everything- just because it works most of the time doesn't rule out the possibility it is not bypassed properly- That bypass box is only $7 off Ebay (GMATTii) and is a "dial-in type" to get the resistances correct.  I spent several hours on the Cobalt because I was convinced it was bypassed correctly since it did occasionally start....I have been doing r/s for 15 yrs and have never bypassed a GA by cutting the security wire-  The security light being on tells it all as far as I'm concerned....Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.