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remote start 02 grand cherokee limited


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xcalibr1 
Member - Posts: 25
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Joined: January 30, 2008
Location: United States
Posted: January 30, 2008 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  
Any info would be appreciated. Im getting ready to install a Scytek 100RS remote start kit in my Wife's 02 Grand Cherokee Limited. My main concerns are the factory alarm system and if I need to use the disarm of the module and how I go about doing this. Also, the bypass module I got for the transponder system is very vague in the instructions. It tells me to energize the ignition system for part of the programming but doesnt tell me how. Can I cut myself a non-transponder key and use that for the programming cycle and since it doesnt have a chip inside then the bypass module should accept the programming instead. Does that sound like it will work? Or do I have to jumper the ignition somehow to energize it? Also my local Jeep dealer tells me to disconnect the battery when hooking this up if I have to disconnect the ignition switch harness because if I dont it may very well blow the airbags when I re-connect the ignition switch harness. Anybody hear of this? They also suggested disconnecting the radio until all is done. If anyone has experience with this year of Grand Cherokee and remote start systems I would much appreciate any insights or quirks to anticipate. Wiring layouts,diagrams,etc would be great. Thank you all for your time and consideration.
rudydapimp 
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Joined: February 27, 2006
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Posted: January 30, 2008 at 12:35 PM / IP Logged  
First off,my father has that same truck and I put his on as well as about 30 other grand cherokees. what bypass are you using?? I would suggest the XK531 as it will do locks, arm/disarm and the transponder bypass.
As for programming, you can ground the wait to start input on the scytek brain and it will allow you to have ignition on to program the bypass.
As for disconnecting the battery, i have never had to.
xcalibr1 
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Posted: January 30, 2008 at 1:41 PM / IP Logged  

Bypass kit is a model PKU-CH. Got it from the same seller as the 100RS kit.

Chris Luongo 
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 7:23 AM / IP Logged  
Disconnecting the battery is contrary to what pro installers do, because with the battery disconnected, you can't test any of the car's wires.
Plus, you'll see when you drop the dash, that the car's ignition wires are in plain sight, and you won't easily get them mixed up with anything to do with the airbag.
I would program that PKU-CH like rudydapinp says:
Do the entire install, including mounting/wiring the PKU-CH. Temporarily unplug PKU-CH. With a key sitting in the ignition, operate the remote starter, to verify that the rest of your install is good. Plug PKU-CH back in.
Then, like he said, temporarily connect the remote starter's wait-to-start input (for diesels) to ground. Now, anytime you turn on the remote starter, it'll power up the ignition (but not crank the starter) until you hit the brake......that's just what you need for programming, easier than messing with jumper wires.
About the factory alarm: PKU-CH is only for the transponder, and will not disarm the alarm. If you remote start it like it is, the alarm will emit one loud honk, which most people find unacceptable.
Three options:
1. Run a wire inside the driver's door, to the disarm wire.
2. Use a relay, activated only during remote start, to interrupt the gray/orange horn wire coming from the BCM (left plug, directly above fuses), so the horn can't be heard.
3. Buy a databus doorlock module. Then, the aftermarket remote can also control the doorlocks and factory alarm. Your wife will appreciate only having to carry one remote that does everything.
xcalibr1 
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 8:33 AM / IP Logged  

I really appreciate the info. Can you elaborate on the disarm wire in the door? My module shows this as the wire:

Pin 10 WHITE/ VIOLET WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500 mA. The Violet/white wire provides a ground output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.

Do I just tap into that wire with this WHITE/ violet wire from the module or do I need to have a relay of sorts? Do I then need to connect to the re-arm wire as well or not?

Again I really appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions.

soultinter 
Copper - Posts: 170
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Joined: January 16, 2004
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 9:18 AM / IP Logged  
get an XK01 or a JDL-PK module, it will do both transponder and factory alarm/locks.
chadwa2003 
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged  
You could also get an xk531 if you wanted an all in one doorlock and transponder bypass but the xk01will not do both
xcalibr1 
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 2:37 PM / IP Logged  

Im not real concerned with the 2 remote deal and having to use the factory remote for the door locks.  I just basically want to try and use the 2 items I have, being the 100RS system and the PKU-CH bypass module. I just need to know what I absolutely have to do to get this setup to work. Im thinking this vehicle has the factory alarm as it has the blinking red light on top of the dash. I basically need to know if I need to tie into the factory arm and disarm wire and how I go about doing so. Do I need relays or anything or just tie in? What is the purpose of the re-arm wiring? Do I need that or just the dis-arm hookup?

chriswallace187 
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 3:55 PM / IP Logged  

As mentioned above by Chris Luongo, remote starting with the alarm armed will cause one loud annoying honk. 

The only way to stop that is by using the WHITE/ Violet (-) disarm wire from the Scytek unit and connecting it to the factory disarm wire in the door, or by using a data interface that controls lock/unlock/arm/disarm as suggested above.

It may need to be connected with a relay - you can run the wire to the disarm wire in the door first, connect them and add a relay if the alarm isn't disarming then.

The rearm wire will not do anything to this vehicle unless you are using a data interface, so you can leave it be.

Since the Astra100RS doesn't have a wait-to-start wire you'll have to program the PKU-CH using either a metal non-transponder key, or a jumper to the ignition wire...I'd suggest the jumper since it saves a trip to the hardware store, and you can program the PKU-CH right before you hook the RS to the ignition harness - just jumper the 12v+ and ignition wires in that harness together once you've got it into programming mode with the 2 factory keys; there's no need to jump any other wires.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
xcalibr1 
Member - Posts: 25
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Joined: January 30, 2008
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Posted: January 31, 2008 at 4:49 PM / IP Logged  
Okay, here is some new info and I dont know if it makes things better or not. I just went out and got in the vehicle and then proceeded to do all the things to exit the vehicle (left drivers window down) and locked it up. I waited for the red light to stop flashing fast and then proceeded to reach in thru the window and start the vehicle with the doors locked. I saw this procedure mentioned in another post to test for alarm. The vehicle started no problem with no annoying honk of the horn. Now in retrospect I cant tell you if the red light went out or not. But it started and stayed running and no annoying beeps. I then went and unlocked the doors with the remote like would be done when coming out to the vehicle and it stayed running. So does that help things or does the remote start make things happen differently? As far as the plain key...that isnt a problem as I can cut it myself at work and the local hardware store has the keys so no big deal. I may even see if my parts runner minds swinging by and picking me one up on one of his runs. LOL. One other thing...is the hood switch a big deal? I mean is it worth installing? I guess Im not fully understanding the purpose. Thanks again folks for your help. I just like to have everything worked out on paper and in my head before tackling a totally new task like this. And you guys have been a big help. Somebody gave me some 3m t-taps to tap into the wires that he uses exclusively and man is that gonna make things so much easier. Plus no big deal to undo what Im doing.
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