remote start 02 grand cherokee limited

A co-worker of mine, who's done a lot more Chryslers than I have, tells me that some of those don't honk upon startup......so I guess you're lucky, and don't need to worry about it....very cool!   So basically, your WHITE/ violet doesn't get connected to anything. To answer your other questions: --The purpose of the hoodpin is to disable remote starting with the hood raised, to avoid getting injured while working on the engine. Many installers don't install them because they rust, don't work, and create customer comebacks.......others install them religiously and speak badly of those who don't. I'm not here to decide for you, just to answer your question. Your unit might also come with a toggle switch to disable the unit when you're going to service the car. I'm trying to think of some other things that might help you....... --Disassembly: Tilt wheel all the way down, unsnap plastic piece below speedometer, remote two Philips screws. Under the dash, remove two 10mm gold-colored screws. Pull the lower dash panel straight (toward the rear of the car), and it'll unclip. Behind there is a black metal brace. Remove four more 10mm gold colored screws. Note that these screws are shorter than the other two, and don't mix them up. --Parking lights: Instead of the resistor, you can tap a wire directly into the parking light relay. Directly above the fuses, you'll see several small relays. Touch each of them with a screwdriver or other tool in your hand, one at a time, while switching the lights on and off...you'll feel which is the right one. Carefully pry it out. Configure your Sckytek for a negative parking light output. Carefully wrap a small wire around pin 86 of the relay, then reinstall. Brake wire: If you rotate the white plastic brake pedal switch slightly, it'll pop out of its mounting, and it'll drop down and give you enough slack to work with. The brake switch is somewhat fragile, so be gentle with it.....but it's only $12 at AutoZone if anything should happen. Brain location: Most of the driver's kick panel is empty inside. I like to put the brain sort of above the kick panel, then drop it down so it sort of "falls" inside.....it'll fit in there pretty well, and then a zip tie or two up top, tie it to the car's exisitng wire harnesses.......it'll be out of the way, where it won't have a change of getting caught up in your feet even if the zip tie should break, and it's easy to get to in the future for any possible repairs. Firewall pass-through. Just above the kick panel, there's a rubber boot with a bunch of factory wires passing through. You should be able to straighten out a piece of coat hanger, sharpen it up a bit, and poke it through there with your wire tightly taped to it. Or, if you choose to skip the tachometer connection, I find that those vehicles work well on voltage sense, with 1.0 seconds crank time.

Man, just when I think its all figured out and gonna be easy I go and find more questions. The instructions show 5 wires on the starter relay part. It shows pin 5 being hooked to a 25a constant 12v source. Sounded easy.But when I look at the harness there are in fact 2 red wires. They both each have a 30a fuse setup in each. Where do I connect these? Do I have to go to the battery for that? Do I need both? The instructions show like there is only one red wire. Go figure. Cant anyone make clear instructions anymore? Can the antenna be pretty much anywhere in the vehicle or does it have to be seen? This one has the red LEDs and the valet button on the antenna base. I was just thinking of mounting it under the dash near the drivers knee area. Suggestions on these issues?

xcalibr1 wrote: Man, just when I think its all figured out and gonna be easy I go and find more questions. The instructions show 5 wires on the starter relay part. It shows pin 5 being hooked to a 25a constant 12v source. Sounded easy.But when I look at the harness there are in fact 2 red wires. They both each have a 30a fuse setup in each. Where do I connect these? Do I have to go to the battery for that? Do I need both? The instructions show like there is only one red wire. Go figure. Cant anyone make clear instructions anymore? Can the antenna be pretty much anywhere in the vehicle or does it have to be seen? This one has the red LEDs and the valet button on the antenna base. I was just thinking of mounting it under the dash near the drivers knee area. Suggestions on these issues?

If your manual looks like this one from Scytek's website, you want to look at the diagram for the relay pack and not for the brain for the connections. Ignore the wire descriptions a few pages earlier - they are completely wrong. The wires indicated from the brain are the 5-wire ribbon cable which just plugs into the brain and the relay pack and doesn't go directly to the car. You need both red wires to the relay pack connected - each wire powers 2 of the 4 relays inside, which output your ignition, starter, accessory wires. Antenna should be mounted on the windshield for the best possible range...usually right behind the rearview mirror works and is inconspicuous. Also, I would suggest you solder connections instead of t-taps - they may be faster but you won't care when your r/s has issues due to intermittent non-working connection.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Yeah, thats what my manual looks like. Would you put that antenna up behind the mirror even since it has the 2 LEDs and the valet button? Where do you hook the 2 red wires for 12v constant for the relay pack? The manuals states 25A source but then each of them has a 30A fuse. If they have that kind of load on each wire do I need to source them from the battery? If so, what gauge of stranded wire would I use as I will need to buy some. I may just use the t-taps to start to get everything working and then go back and solder once its all done. I dont have the confidence that you guys have that do this all the time.

Chris another thing I noticed is the jumper setting for the park lite relay as far as + or -. The diagram is different on that as well. It looks like I need the (-) setting. Do I move the jumper to the side marked (-) for the negative setting or do I move it to the other side to have the (-) side pin clear for the (-) setting? Because my board has the + and - designations backwards from the diagram in the manual. The manual states....Left Pin + Center Pin = positive     Right Pin + Center Pin = negative. But my (-) printed on the board is to the left, so if I put the jumper like they say then the (-) side pin is clear of a jumper. Man, how do you guys install this stuff if the instructions are unclear and sometimes contradictory?

I haven't installed a Scytek unit, or read one of their manuals........but to answer your question, no, no one knows how to write a manual anymore! They're almost invariably full of spelling and grammatical errors, and explain things incredibly poorly. It's not just because you're inexperienced, most professionals also don't understand the manuals. I've been trying to offer my services to some of the manufacturers, rewriting their manuals for them, to reduce their return/tech support rates, but I can't seem to get their attention. I think I could save them a lot of money. As to your other questions: No need to go to the battery. In the ignition harness you'll find two heavy constant-power wires, a red and a pink/black........connect one of each of the remote starter's wires to each of those. Like chriswallace said, the remote starter will get poorer range with the antenna buried under the dash. Some users find this acceptable, some don't. Also, if you have to replace a remote, or reprogram a feature, you'll have to take the car apart again to get to that button. It shouldn't take more than 1 minute to put the antenna on the glass. Pull off the weatherstripping that runs down the A-pillar. Pull it straight, slowly, and just let it hang there like that.......there's a bunch of sticky stuff on it, but if you pull it out straight, and put it back in straight, without touching it, you won't make a mess. Tuck the antenna's cable into the gap behind where the weatherstripping was, use a small (non-sharp) tool to tuck it into the small space between the A-pillar and the headliner. Pull down the front edge of the headliner by hand, and tuck the wire up there, letting it hang down behind the mirror. Unless your instructions say otherwise, the antenna is probably best in the center of the windshield (behind the mirror), with the antenna mast positioned below (or to the side of, if you prefer), the black dot-matrix tint. It has been said (but not proven) that the dot-matrix is metallic, and hurts range.

Okay guys I think I have enough info to make a go at this thing. I may try on Saturday if timing suits. I got myself some non-chip keys to try the bypass programming. I think that will be easier for me. I can cut the key myself at work. Im gonna try the tachless mode first with a 1.0 second crank time that was mentioned. I think we determined that an alarm system was not gonna be a problem so that simplifies things. Im gonna use the t-taps at least just to start and get it working even if I have to go back later and solder. I think I only have to locate maybe 7 or 8 wires. The rest is tied to the bypass module and the ground wire and then the hood switch. I may not do the hood switch at least to start out and get it working. I want to keep things at a minimum but I think I will add it since its a safety issue. Thank you all. I want to thank everyone who gave input into this project. I want to thank everyone as well for their professionalism that is unmatched in any other forum I have ever been in. Nobody belittled me in the least for "not being in the business" as alot of you are. I am not a technician or a mechanic but I do my own work for the most part because I grew up around cars and just have always been that way. I work in a garage but not as a tech and I will do this install at the garage so I have access to tools,etc that I may need that I dont have. I dont look for this install to go smooth but I will putter my way thru and now that I have alot of new info from you guys I have alot better chance of getting it right the first time. Again, thank you all. I will post when I have it done and working or post again if I have a problem with it and need your help again. But either way you will see a post when its done.

Update. I installed the remote start today. It started the first time no problems. I was very pleased with everything until I got home. This is where my inexperience shows. I never checked to see if the heater worked and of course, it doesnt. I never checked that until I got home. The radio works. I hooked into accessory #1 RED / black from the wiring diagram. Can anyone tell me should I have hooked into accessory #2 BLACK/ orange? I have to go back and correct that. I didnt hook the hood switch up and I tied into the hazard light wire so the park lites flash in r/s mode. But everything seems to work great. It shuts down when hitting the brake pedal and it stays on if I hit the brake and have the key in the iginition turned to RUN. It starts right up. Other than the heater issue it works great. I have to run the antenna up to the windshield top as well so right now I dont have alot of range. Its just laying at the front of the floor console. My hands were pretty dirty and I didnt want to mess around at the headliner and A-pillar just yet. Plus I ran out of time. But anyway, if anyone can tell me what wire I need to connect into to have the heat work in R/S mode I would appreciate it. This is a Grand Cherokee Limited with the dual zone auto temp control system.

Hey, not too bad for your first install! Yes, the BLACK/ orange is what you need to have the climate control system come on during remote start. (That's a pretty common color on other Chrysler products, too.) Also, the RED / black would at first appear to just power up the radio and other non-essential items, but on the Limited, the air conditioning compressor also won't come on without that wire being powered up. So, in short: --The BLACK/ orange needs to see accessory for the climate controls to work at all. --If you intend to use the remote starter during the summer as well as the winter, the RED / black needs to see accessory as well. --Again, I'm not familiar with Scytek, but the unit's "Ignition 2" output should offer some kind of adjustment, either in the programming menu or with a jumper. Their install manual might use different terminology, but you want to set it for "as accessory" or "off during crank."