locked inside

well yes i say if you want to be protective about your car, its worth it. If you could care less then dont bother. You could always use the trunk light to trigger the alarm if they were to pry it open.

LOL alright then... what i was originally saying was, my switch in the car works sporadically just like my power locks.. Sometimes i start the car and it auto locks (it always used to do that), sometimes it does not.. for example if my car door is unlocked, i would be able to LOCK the door using the switch...BUT i CANNOT unlock it ... leaving me locked in the car, i would have to turn the ignition on and wait for it to unlock.. and if that does not work then i do it again.. usually 2/3rd time works .. I would like to know why my unlock portion of my switch does not work consistently ... anyone have ANy ideas???

*UPDATE* If anyone has been following this thread...Ive found out something that might be useful to finding a solution to this problem.. If the door's are locked and i am inside the car, and cannot get out. Ive noticed that when i turn the ignition on, and wait about 2-3 seconds i am able to unlock the doors using the UNLOCK on the switch, but if i was to lock the doors right after i did that using the LOCK of the switch, i would not be able to unlock it again using the unlock....weird???... anyone???

well

Well tedmond, I went and installed those 2 relays and I have good news and I have bad news. The good news is that the relays do their job. The driver side door wont lock when the key is inserted. The bad news is that the drivers door also wont unlock unless I remove the key as soon as I turn the ignition off. I have ignition door locking and unlocking  so when I turn the ignition off, since the key is still inserted, continuity is broken to the door motor thus not allowing the door to unlock. What I dont understand is that I have the relay wired to the lock wire (tan). The light blue wire is for unlocking. I also dont understand why the door wont unlock when the ignition is turned off. I didnt tap into the unlock wire at all. The only way i can get the door to unlock when the ignition is turned off is if I remove the key as soon as the ignition is turned off. I guess there is not a way to fix this. BUT, here is how everything is hooked up. My factory door locking is priority door unlocking meaning I would need to hit the unlock button twice to unlock the passenger door. I did not want this so what I did was I kept the blue wire connected to the factory keyless entry. I cut the lock wire running to the keyless entry though. I wired up a relay (or 2) so that I can use my new new alarm to unlock the doors. Could it be that those relays power both the lock and unlock? Also, I cut the lock wire between those relay(s) and the lock motor. Should I have done it between the alarm and relay(s) instead?

tedmond wrote: did you use relays for the lock/unlock from the alarm? sounds as if there is no continuity on the wire. could either be a broken wire or if you did a 5wire REV Polarity, the relay might not be functioning properly.

It might  be the relay, but i noticed this problem started to happen as soon as my remote UNLOCK button stopped working...  I wired the unlock & lock from the switch to the alarm harness .. This is my alarm

https://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2906/p1050682oo3.jpg

I used the, White 3 pin - Door Lock Port - Blue and Green wires  and Black for ground.

It is weird because when i start the car, the door's usually lock if the door is closed. Sometimes when i start it it does nothing. It seems to work whenever it wants.

Like ive stated before, if the doors lock automatically when the car is started, i first try the switch if that does not work to unlock then i turn the car off, and turn just the ignition on, and sometimes it unlocks, and other times i have to do the process 2/3 times in order for the door to unlock....

Could it be a bad connection??.. A toasted relay???....All wires are soldered & i did NOT do a hack job....

My SRS light is on because of my cable reel, could that be a reason??

Any ideas anyone??

It is driving me CRAZY !

LOL..

i would check the ground that you used for your unit. also the antenna plug might not be seated correctly. I would use a DMM and meter the lock ouputs and see if they work or not. Also check to see if the ground wire has a resistance less than 0.4 ohms.

well gentlemen i finally did it.. it took a couple of hours but its been done.. I exposed all my wiring and attacked with with a multimeter, and the problem that was causing all this was.. The SWITCH itself.. when i put a multimeter to it, it would show connectivity when i locked the door, but when i unlocked it, nothing.. i jiggled it around and sure enough the multimeter went crazy lol... That was the first problem.. the second problem was in regards to the remote.. i took it apart, it has to do with the actual board of the remote it self, the button of the remote was not making contact with the button on the board.. and i noticed that on the opposite side where the button is, there is a copper color that is exposed.. so i put electrical tape on it put it back together and presto.. we are good to go for how long.. thats another story , haha.. Thanks for all your help everyone i appreciate it.