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Ground When Armed Output Purpose?


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KPierson 
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Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 15, 2008 at 8:06 PM / IP Logged  

lol.

A 15A fuse for an LED?????  That would be more current then most high powered head units.  It may be 15mA.  :)

Kevin Pierson
i am an idiot 
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Posted: March 15, 2008 at 8:15 PM / IP Logged  
Audioman, if you need more current capacity, the following device will easily allow your 800 ma device to work.  I am sure Radio Shack has a suitable part available.  If there is an electronics parts warehouse near you an NTE 332 is the device you need to get.  If that is not possible for you I will find you something at Radio Shack.  If you try to run the device on the 500ma output there is a very good chance that you will damage the output of the alarm.  If you only need 800 ma there is no need for a heat sink on this device.  If you need more or if it is heating up, you can mount it to a piece of metal under the dash.  This also works on some bluetooth devices that do not provide enough current to trip a relay.  Ground When Armed Output Purpose? - Page 6 -- posted image.
i am an idiot 
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audioman2007 
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Posted: March 15, 2008 at 8:47 PM / IP Logged  

Keven, The LED itself doesnt have a fuse in it. I installed a fuse in line. At first I started with a 5 amp fuse and it blew it right away. Then I used a 10 amp and it blew about 5 seconds. I now have a 15 amp and its fine.

I am an idiot, none of my devices are 800Ma. I just used that to try and make a point. The output on my armed output is 500Ma. How long would it take to burn up the output? I doubt having those wires run off that output will  overheat it.

When I have the ground wire grounded and the orange wire to armed output, I am able to program the LED speed, but then when I arm it, I get nothing. With both black and orange being wired to the armed ouput, I cant program the speed, but the LED works when I arm the system. I just dont understand it. This is exactly how I did it... I have a relay that is supposed to run my neaon underbody lights (which I never installed) That relay used has 2 power wires since that relay is to convert polarity. I have 1 power wire splitting off to those 2 wires with an inline fuse that was 10 amps. I then spliced off of one of those wires for the LED power wire using a fuse inline rated at 5 amps. When I first installed the LED, I blew the 5 amp right away, and since I had no small blade fuses laying around I used my fog lights fuse which was 20 amps. The LED didnt work then so I thought I messed it up. So I ripped out the LED only to rip off the plug on it. I then had to use butt connectors to fix that. When I went to install it again this morning, I then blew the 10 amp fuse. I replaced that with a 20 amp and the other with a 15 amp. Thats where I am thinking the LED needs a 15 amp.

KPierson 
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Posted: March 16, 2008 at 7:58 AM / IP Logged  
If you are blowing 10A fuses you have something hooked up wrong.  Do you have the model number and manufacturer of the LED module you are using?
Kevin Pierson
audioman2007 
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Posted: March 16, 2008 at 10:26 AM / IP Logged  
I must of shorted something out before because I pulled out the 10 amp fuse and replaced it with a 5 amp and everything is fine. So with that said, do you think my armed output will be fine now that I know a 5 amp fuse is fine?
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