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dei 530t problem w/ window and up w/ arm


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eric3337 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 22, 2008 at 6:20 PM / IP Logged  
I have a 1999 silverado 1500 w/ a avital 4400 installed.  i am hooking up a dei 530t.  Everything is run into the door and hooked up at the motor.  Drivers door work fine one touch up and down.  Pass door works with one touch down then it will only go up inch by inch.  The drivers window will not go up when armed be it will go up if the truck is running then remote started.  Pass window will only move inch by inch at this point also.  Can you give me some idea how to get the pass window to go up all the way and both windows to go up when armed.... The dipswitch settings are set to high for both and i have tried all the possible settings.   Thanks for your help
eric3337 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 22, 2008 at 6:21 PM / IP Logged  
From prev thread...I have the wires running to the motor on both doors driver and pass
e customs
southsidemex23 
Member - Posts: 2
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Joined: March 23, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 23, 2008 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  
im also getting the same problem its just that only the passenger goes up half way then it will slowwly come to a stop about an inch from that my settings on the module are set to high what exactly should i do to fix the prob? i thought it could of been a ground problem. any help will be appreciated.
StealthEs 
Copper - Posts: 326
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Joined: September 04, 2003
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 24, 2008 at 10:23 AM / IP Logged  
Did you use the ground when running(blue) rather then the ground when armed(orange) ? That will cause it to not go up and arm but up on Rstart.
Cris
Mark Mizenko 
Copper - Posts: 460
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 13, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 24, 2008 at 12:28 PM / IP Logged  

If it runs up fine with the motor running, but not with the motor off, you probably ran too small of a gauge wiring.  Did you entend any of the 530T's wiring? (of course you did, you have to).   And the "High" setting is'nt necessarly the best, or "more powerful". 

All the 529 and 530'ts I ever put in, worked fine.  I started with the factory default setting (and usually never had to change it), but used 10 or 12 gauge wire for powering the module and motor wire extension.   You can double up on 14 or 16 gauge twin speaker wire, that works great too.  But you have to get ALOT of power to the module, and it'll work great.

eric3337 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 24, 2008 at 2:18 PM / IP Logged  
I used 14 gauge wire to run the wire to the pass door.  The window rolls down fine when truck is on but when it is off the pass window will only go abit pass vented whereas the driver window will go all the way down.  With the truck off both of the windows will not roll up all the way i have to keeping pressing the switch to get the windows up.  Should i run my power wire directly to the battery or can i wire a relay to get more power to each window motor.  I found out that the drivers window will start to roll up when armed but stops half way up.   it seems like i am not getting enought power to the window motors when truck is off and not enough to the pass moto when the truck is on.  Any help would be great.  The driver side goes all the way down fine with remote but pass only goes abit pass vented.  Thanks for your replies.
southsidemex23 
Member - Posts: 2
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Joined: March 23, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 12:25 AM / IP Logged  
thats what i was thinking. which was adding a relay so i can get power from the battery so it can have more power to the motor to be able to roll up the pass. side.
davngr 
Copper - Posts: 109
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2007
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 4:43 AM / IP Logged  
i like to run power from the batt(fused) for window mods.  also rember the ground is just as important as the power and should be ran inside the car.  check to make sure the pass window isint dirty or out of track, if it's only slightly binding up, the widow will work with the factory switch but you will have problems with mods that use static resistance to sense when the window is closed.
life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
eric3337 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 6:59 PM / IP Logged  
Can i use 2 530t's to power the windows:  1 mode for driver side 1 for pass side set up like so. For my truck it would be as follows drivers side blue motor wire to blue and blue/black  wire and the brown and BROWN / black to switch side of blue motor wire,  and brown motor wire to green and GREEN/ black and white and WHITE/ black to switch side of that wire and repeat for the pass side with another mod?  
e customs
Mark Mizenko 
Copper - Posts: 460
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 13, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 9:11 PM / IP Logged  

You dont need 2 530t's, 1 will do both windows.  The someone else said, have the black Ground wire as short as possible and grounded well INSIDE  the car.  

Where do you have the module, NOT inside the door I hope, thats a bad place for it, it WILL get wet in the door and fail.

And it still sounds like you're not getting enough power to the module.  Run a 12gauge wire (fused) from the battery, or a good constant source...to the module.    And use 12gauge speaker wire, doubled up from the module to the passenger door and I bet everything will work fine

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