scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse

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nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 3:24 AM / IP Logged

Hey everyone! This is my first post but I've used this great site a couple times before.

So my problem: I just installed a Scytek Galaxy 5000rs-2w (auto version) on my '99 Eclipse GSX (manual trans). I have the cluch start swith disabled, and I never leave it in gear, so I went with the auto version. Everything works fine exept about a week after installing it my car keeps dieing. Both times it has died happened after I remote started it. First time it tried to start once, failed, then was succesfull the second time. But after a minute or two of idleing it will start to drop RPMs and sputter, then die. It will not start up after dieing. Jump started it fine once, drove about 15-20 miles so the alternator would recharge the battery. No problems and remote started fine again. But after leaving it for about 2-3 hours after this drive, the same thing happened again. Wouldn't even jump start at first; Had to wait a couple seconds and try again.

Also, something really wierd happened that's never happend before on the car until after jump starting it the second time: The car seemed to die-- the instrument cluster lights turned on (ABS, etc) and the RPMs dropped to zero. But right when this happened I gave it some gas to try to prevent it from dieing. Well the RPMs stayed at zero but the engine was running normal and reving as I gave it gas. I don't know if this could have anything to do with a bad connection on the tach wire from the alarm, or maybe I connected it to a wire other than the tach wire by mistake (I don't know what the wire should test as on the DMM).

I haven't set up the tach learn feature yet, or the dome light delay feature. And I haven't turned off the extended parking lights or siren chirps yet. The led (which is very bright) is on constantly, so I don't know if this could be contributing at all. I soldered most connections (crimped a couple) and all the connections seemed fine. I have two ignition wires connected. I also added some extras to the alarm: A backup battery, tilt sensor, and glass break sensor. And I diode isolated the extra sensors. For the starter kill relay, I soldered a diode between the 85 and 86 poles. I made a diagram of the whole thing with all the connections, etc. So if it would help to post that, I can.

My question is will a shop be able to pinpoint the problem? I am going to have them load test the battery and alternator to make sure that's not the problem. Or can I test for it myself? I have a DMM but don't know the specifics of how/what to test, and any precautions I should take when testing. Should I look for anything in particular? And yes I realize how rediculous is seems that I installed all this stuff but don't know how to test for problems. :) Any help would really be appreciated!

davngr

Copper - Posts: 109

Joined: October 20, 2007

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 4:58 AM / IP Logged

if your sure the car never had these problems before i would say it's you ignition wire on the car either has a bad connection or is incorrectly attached to the alarm( some alarms interupt the ignition wire maybe you reversed the input /output) any reputable shop should be able to trouble shoot. anything that extreme should be obious to a tech.

life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel

Twelvoltz

Platinum - Posts: 2,384

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Joined: March 24, 2005

Location: New Jersey, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 6:26 AM / IP Logged

nayr747 wrote:

My question is will a shop be able to pinpoint the problem?

No shop I know of will touch this car. You should be using a system designed for a manual transmission, not an automatic transmission. Not only is this against the law it is extremely unsafe and should be removed. DEI makes an add-on piece that you could use to make it safe.

Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 7:02 AM / IP Logged

I agree with Twelvoltz. Generally, the only thing most shops would do would be to remove everything, and start over with their own product.

We find that once we touch someone else's installation, going forward, we "own" the whole job.

A few times, I've repaired one problem for a small fee, but then a month later when something else goes wrong, the customer comes back expecting the next problem fixed for free. I learned after that.

The rules of this website don't allow us to help you do an incorrect installation on a manual-transmission car, but, as for your tach wire:

--The remote starter's tach wire only "reads," it doesn't make any sort of output. Connecting it to the wrong wire in your car might cause the remote starter not to work, but it shouldn't cause the car to die.

--However, if the tach wire was run through the firewall, or over a hot exhaust pipe, or, well.......basically anything that might accidentally short it to ground, that would make the coil, or injector, or whatever you connected to, short out as well.

Judging by what you said about the engine revving OK, but the factory tachometer not working, this is a distinct possiblitly.

I would inspect the entire length of the tach wire for any possiblity of shorting out to anything else.

Even if you don't find anything visually wrong with it, maybe disconnect it from the engine for a couple of days, drive the car around, and see if the problem goes away.

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 7:49 AM / IP Logged

Twelvoltz wrote:

I completely understand what you guys are saying about the safety issue. I was hesitant about it for sure. The car does have a neutral safety wire. If anyone could tell me if I can connect that to something on the alarm so that it will only remote start if that wire shows it's in neutral that would be great. The e-brake wire is hooked up as well, so if somehow it is remote started in gear it will not move much. I actually have both the auto and manual versions of the alarm, but I chose to install the auto because you can't use both the turbo timer and remote start features of the alarm with the manual version (even with an aftermarket turbo timer).

Twelvoltz wrote:

DEI makes an add-on piece that you could use to make it safe.

Can you give me the DEI part number, or what exactly it's called?

Chris Luongo wrote:

I would inspect the entire length of the tach wire for any possiblity of shorting out to anything else.

Will do. Thanks.

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 7:57 AM / IP Logged

Just cleaned up and tightened the battery posts. Battery tested 11.84v on the DMM (engine off, no lights on). Does that seem too low?

Well if you guys aren't allowed to give me any help then I completely understand, but I'm just trying to fix a dieing battery problem really. If you guys could give me any advice on troubleshooting electrical problems like this I'd really appreciate it. And help on making it safe/legal would be great too (other than reinstalling a new alarm).

KarTuneMan

Platinum - Posts: 7,056

Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 10:52 AM / IP Logged

DEI 689M.

And as for your ebrake. Your car will drag itself untill something stops it.

like a kid on a bicycle, your neighbors dog, your garage door.... etc.

brcidd

Copper - Posts: 274

Joined: January 07, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged

You may not ever leave it in gear-- but your wife, g/f, mechanic, mom, dad, whatever might--- I did my own version once- wired into e-brake, and shifter linkage mechanism- both had to be at the right spot- then and only then would it try to start- e-brake had to be fully extended and shifter had to be in neutral- no other combo would allow it to start ....and I was still nervous every time I R/S it!!!

Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged

Well because of what you guys said I am planning on buying that DEI thing or wiring it so that it is safe. I don't want to take it all out and do it all over again though (took about 10-15 hours). So is there any way you guys could give me any help on how to find my power drain? Like where to look, what to look for, and how to test (safely)?

KarTuneMan wrote:

DEI 689M.

And as for your ebrake. Your car will drag itself untill something stops it.

like a kid on a bicycle, your neighbors dog, your garage door.... etc.

Well won't it just stall?

brcidd wrote:

Can you give me any info on how to wire it like you did? There's a neutral safety wire but I don't know how to wire it/what to connect it to on the alarm. There's no alarm wire specifically for this but I thought I might be able to connect it to another wire that the alarm needs to see before it remote starts. And how did you wire it so that the e-brake had to be fully extended? Thanks for any help!

offroadzj

Gold - Posts: 2,043

This member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.

Joined: June 03, 2005

Location: New York, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 9:16 PM / IP Logged

if the nss wire is ground when in gear, but not in neutral than you can hook it to the hood pin input. This way if the car is in gear, the r/s will think the hood is open, not allowing it to start.

Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

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