scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse

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nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 10, 2008 at 10:25 PM / IP Logged

Well the battery is dead again today after trying to start it with the keys. I just tested the battery voltage again after sitting overnight and it's at 10.75v. It was 11.84 a few hours after turning it off last night. So it lost almost a full volt overnight. I put the DMM inline between the neg battery cable and neg post and got about 50 milliamps. From what I've read this is a very high draw. I don't know if I had the lead going to the right place on the DMM though. The neg lead went to "COM", and the pos. lead went to "VΩmA". But when I move the pos. lead to the other DMM port marked "10A DC", it read about 0.5. Both times the DMM was set to 200m Amps direct current.

Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for the remote start? I don't think there is a fuse on the alarm's remote start wiring but I could be wrong.

davngr

Copper - Posts: 109

Joined: October 20, 2007

Posted: April 11, 2008 at 3:28 AM / IP Logged

as i said in my first post you should take your car to a shop and let them find what's wrong with it. it wont be cheap but depending on waht the problem is replacing vital parts of your electrical system wont be either. it might be that your battery went south on you, might try buying a new one. i hate to throw parts at a problem but from your description i cant tell you for sure what's wrong. try disconnecting your alarm all together and see if the same problems happens again. try to find a good shop that wont gouge you but be ready to buy additonal parts and pay for a full install and then some if the installer feels it's needed. the up side to this is that if something goes wrong you can take it back to that shop.

ps. if you decide to change the battery make sure the car is not in gear and your hood safety switch is installled and working properly i have seen techs get ran over when reconnecting batterys in manual transmision cars with erroneously installed remote starts.

life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel

enice

Silver - Posts: 857

Joined: March 05, 2006

Location: New York, United States

Posted: April 11, 2008 at 6:03 AM / IP Logged

OK....I'm seeing a pattern here. The answer I would give you is a general answer for any aftermarket product installation. Pull the fuses on the alarm for a day or two and see if your battery still drains. If it does drain then replace the battery. It may not be able to hold the charge anymore. Even worse you may look at the alternator.

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 11, 2008 at 9:58 PM / IP Logged

Well someone suggested I might have wired the ignition wrong. There is one ignition input and two outputs on the alarm. For the ignition input, I have it wired along with ignition output 1 to the car's main ignition wire. They are tapped in at the same location on the car's wire. Ignition output 2 is tapped into the car's second ignition wire. Is this how it should be wired?

Also, just tested the battery again and it's at 7.25v! Seems really low to me.

enice wrote:

Will do. The thing is though, the battery is only about 4-5 months old. And the alternator is maybe a year old. So that is confusing me. The only thing I noticed before I installed the alarm is that after I started the car, the lights would all be more dim than normal, and they would only go to full brightness when the RPMs got up to exactly 3,000rpm.

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: April 12, 2008 at 11:09 AM / IP Logged

I have a few more comments.

--I don't know what the moderator of this site will say, if he will lock this post or not...........but if your car truly does have a neutral safety wire, then it should be perfectly safe to install an automatic-transmission remote starter, as long as the safety features are connected correctly.

What neutral safety wire is this? Where did you find it? How does it rest (positive or ground?) when the car is in neutral?

--Did you add any extra relays to your installation, for extra features? (Domelight supervision, starter kill, trunk release, etcetera.)

Because, however you choose to set up your relay(s), they mustn't be allowed to stay energized (on) with the car off.

I mean, it's OK for a domelight supervision relay to stay on for 30 seconds.....but you can't have a starter kill relay that stays on overnight.

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: April 12, 2008 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged

The only external relay on the alarm is a starter kill/anti grind relay. I don't remember if it was included with the alarm or if it was an extra provided by Alarmtek (where I bought it). I made a diagram in paint so I could visualize all the connections. It's not 100% how it's actually wired though (some wires on the alarm that it shows were cut short and not used, and some connections are not in the exact same place as the diagram shows). I will post that in a few minutes so you guys will know all the connections I made.

Also, I removed the 3 fuses from the alarm's power wires, the fuse from the tilt sensor's power wire, the parking light relay wire, and the backup battery's power wire. I then used a jump stater battery pack and left it connected to the car's battery to get the voltage from what it was at (about 5v) to normal voltage, which took about 10 minutes. I then started it, removed the jumper, and it ran for about a minute before dieing again. I tested the voltage after this and it was about 11.6v and rising. But after sitting for the night it now tests as 7.5v. So either it's not the alarm, or even with the fuses pulled it still allows a drain, or I just didn't give the alternator a chance to charge the battery enough. Very confusing!

So can anyone help me find the electrical drain? How to test, where, safety, etc? This thread has some info but I need to know more. I read that testing for a draw as in the second post of the link can cause a lead-acid battery to release explosive gases. Is this method safe?

And thanks again to everyone that has helped me. I really appreciate it!

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: June 24, 2008 at 12:27 AM / IP Logged

I'm trying to figure out why my battery keeps going dead after I installed a Scytek 5000RS-2W in my '99 Eclipse GSX. The alarm has remote start and turbo timer, and I added a backup battery, tilt sensor and glass break sensor.

I tested the Amps that were being drawn from the battery with my DMM and got these readings:

-Alarm out - 35mA

-Alarm in (all fuses/connections in) - 57.2mA

-Fuses pulled

-Tilt - 56.7mA

-Backup - 60.2mA

-Alarm power 3 - 57.5mA

-Alarm power 1 - 57.6mA

-Alarm power 1,2 - 57.5mA

-Alarm power 1,2,3 - 57.4mA

-Alarm power 1,2,3; backup batt. - 37.6-38.8mA (fluctuated at ~0.5 sec. interval)

-Connections on brain pulled (all fuses in)

-Antenna - 46.6mA

-E-brake - ~53mA

-Door locks - 57.7mA

-LED - 53.4mA

-Shock sensor - 56.6mA

Here is a picture I made in paint of how I wired the system:

[IMG]https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/Nayr747/WiringDiagram-Accuratebiggerbrainwi.jpg[/IMG]

Can anyone help?

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: June 24, 2008 at 12:33 AM / IP Logged

I guess the picture didn't work. So here it is:

scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse - Page 2 -- posted image.

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: June 24, 2008 at 2:31 AM / IP Logged

I just tested the Amps that are being drawn from the battery with my DMM and got these readings:

-Alarm brain out - 35mA

-Alarm brain in (all fuses/connections in) - 57.2mA

-Fuses pulled

-Tilt - 56.7mA

-Backup - 60.2mA

-Alarm power 3 - 57.5mA

-Alarm power 1 - 57.6mA

-Alarm power 1,2 - 57.5mA

-Alarm power 1,2,3 - 57.4mA

-Alarm power 1,2,3; backup batt. - 37.6-38.8mA (fluctuated at ~0.5 sec. interval)

-Connections on brain pulled (all fuses in)

-Antenna - 46.6mA

-E-brake - ~53mA

-Door locks - 57.7mA

-LED - 53.4mA

-Shock sensor - 56.6mA

And here is a picture I made in paint of how I wired the system:

scytek 5000 alarm/remote start, 99 eclipse - Page 2 -- posted image.

Can anyone help?

nayr747

Member - Posts: 26

Joined: April 09, 2008

Location: Washington, United States

Posted: June 24, 2008 at 2:39 AM / IP Logged

Also forgot to mention, it IS the alarm that is doing it and NOT the battery or alternator. I pulled the alarm brain a month or so ago and the problem dissapeared.

Also, the only thing about the diagram that isn't 100% correct is the fuse it shows on the backup battery's grey power output wire is not there.

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