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how would you set up these subs and amp?


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auzz 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: April 11, 2008 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  

How would "YOU" set up these subs to this amp.

2 Kicker CompVR 07CVR154 - 15" 4ohm dvc 100-500w RMS - Each In its own seald 2.4cft box http://www.crutchfieldcanada.com/Kicker_Comp_VR_07CVR154_15_Dual_4_Ohm_Voice_Coil_p/2067c15vr4.htm

Viper d1200.1 - 450w X 1 @ 4ohm, 1200w X 1 @ 1ohm http://www.drdetailshop.com/vd1200.1.htm

Would you....

A) Wire them for 4ohm - 225w to each sub

or

B) Wire them for 1ohm - 600w to each sub

I am getting these subs and would be intrested to hear how each of you would set it up. 

Are you power hungry and want to get every watt you can out of your amp or do you like to run you gear a little on the low side just to be safe?

Any other insight is welcome as always.

chillin420 
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Joined: March 27, 2008
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Posted: April 11, 2008 at 1:12 PM / IP Logged  
i think i would honestly wire them up at 4 ohm..  i had a kicker comp back in the day with 250 going to it from a lanzar amp and it rocked the heck out of my little civic hatch lol...
you can do it....
advanced MECP, lol does it really matter....
patience is a virtue
auzz 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 8:37 AM / IP Logged  
Ya I was thinking the same, just wanted to see what a few of you guys thought.  I have read a few posts of people with simular set ups saying there will not be a huge difference in spl and you would only really notice the difference if you were competing.  I am not sure about that... Does that sound right to you guys?
haemphyst 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 12:29 PM / IP Logged  
JUST over 3dB difference. In a daily driver, not noticeable.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
auzz 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 1:27 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for confirming that Heamphyst.  

I thought thats what I remembered reading. I also read your post "How to choose an amplifier" you stated that you almost always buy an amp based on the RMS at 4ohms.  Is that because it is easier on the amp(doesn't run so hot)?

Thanks Again for your info everyone, it is always valued.

sedate 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 2:10 PM / IP Logged  

auzz wrote:
Ya I was thinking the same, just wanted to see what a few of you guys thought.  I have read a few posts of people with simular set ups saying there will not be a huge difference in spl and you would only really notice the difference if you were competing.  I am not sure about that... Does that sound right to you guys?

I would wire at 1-ohm.  The idea that you are going to hear impedence changes, especially with Kicker subs, is rather absurd.

More power provides not just SPL, but headroom and that accompanies (percieved) increases in SQ - whether or not some obscure measurement of THD is increased. . . .

auzz wrote:
I also read your post "How to choose an amplifier" you stated that you almost always buy an amp based on the RMS at 4ohms.  Is that because it is easier on the amp(doesn't run so hot)?

Right but if the amplifier is designed this way - it isn't really going to hurt anything.  Our worst expected symptom is decreased SQ with increased workload on the amplifier - regardless, the idea that human ears are going to hear the difference driving down the road at 40mph is completely - uhh - akin to "my new wires sound great. . . ."

The ONLY reason to purposefully wire an amplifier higher than capacity is, IMO, because a lower impedence causes electrical symptoms that interfere with vehicular operation - excessive light dimmage, dead batteries, etc.  This is NOT going to adversely impact SQ in any way human ears can actually appreciate.

High power will sound, subjectively, much better than high impedence.

auzz wrote:
I have read a few posts of people with simular set ups saying there will not be a huge difference in spl and you would only really notice the difference if you were competing.  I am not sure about that... Does that sound right to you guys?

I mean the word 'huge' means different things to different people - without a doubt you will percieve increased output.

IMO, 3db is a pretty decent gain - especially when ur already up at 130 or so.

haemph wrote:
JUST over 3dB difference. In a daily driver, not noticeable.

It suffices to say haemph - I think your 'goals' tend to be vastly different from most of our OP's . . .

3db isn't a head-snapping gain - but it certainly is "noticeable"

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
capamonkeyboy 
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Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: April 15, 2008 at 3:25 PM / IP Logged  
I would go with 1-ohm, having more amplifier power means having more control over the speakers. That is a lot more important than the worry of blowing out the speakers.
The only way you are actually getting the true 1200 watts RMS total is if your electrical is operating at 14.4v under load. Even then this means each coil is only getting 300 rms, which is only 50 watts above the recommended max. If it were 150 above I would worry.
This is also under the assumption you have at least a 3.0v input or so, most amps will only output their full power if they have at least half the max input voltage and the gain set at 0.5 of unity.
The other thing to note is if you have a 90 amp fuse in place, in order to blow that fuse, you would be producing 12 volts * 90 amps = 1080 watts or (in a perfect world) 14.4 volts * 90 amps = 1296 watts
I doubt you are producing the latter. Chill out, have a fun time, and crank up the tunes.
The best security is to not have anything to steal, but then again your car would be pretty boring.
auzz 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged  

Wow thanks guys, I love getting different views on things like this.  Thats why I asked how would "YOU" set it up. Thanks for all your input, greatly appreciated!

A bit more info:

I think my deck has 4v pre outs - its been a while so I am not 100% sure.  I also have a line level booster but I don't use it as my last few decks have been 4v outs.

I drive a 2000 F150 5.4 7700 with A/C - so i think the Alternator is a 130a but not sure again.  Is that enough amperage to not worry about dimming lights or dead batterys or should I think of getting an HO Alt? (damn just looked at the "Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes" chart and 1000-1200w will draw 160-172a so I think I just answered my own question)

Right now I only have 10ga power and ground wires but do plan on upgrading to 2ga or 4ga power and ground and doing THE BIG THREE before doing this upgrade.

Any more insight? 

Thanks again guys!

sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
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Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: April 15, 2008 at 6:41 PM / IP Logged  
auzz wrote:
I drive a 2000 F150 5.4 7700 with A/C - so i think the Alternator is a 130a but not sure again.  Is that enough amperage to not worry about dimming lights or dead batterys or should I think of getting an HO Alt? (damn just looked at the "Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes" chart and 1000-1200w will draw 160-172a so I think I just answered my own question)

Right now I only have 10ga power and ground wires but do plan on upgrading to 2ga or 4ga power and ground and doing THE BIG THREE before doing this upgrade.

I'd get a Deep Cycle first - this really is the first electrical upgrade you should undertake.  HO Alts are - a big deal - and should be undertaken after all other options have been exhausted.

For the lengths of wire you need for a big 3 - 4awg should be fine.

Of course - if you wire at 4-ohms - you won' t need ANY extra electrical capacity . . . hehe. . .

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
capamonkeyboy 
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Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: April 15, 2008 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged  
I agree that a High Output alt is a beg step, but beware of the downside of batteries designed for car audio applications, they give off charge very quickly in order to meet the high demands of a powerful amp, I have had personal friends go through three of them in a week because they were all dead. They are good at giving up charge even when not supposed to. I think a better option is to get a diehard and a 1 farad cap, this way you have the instant power and the durable power backing up your battery. Remember, you are only drawing a portion of that mythical 1200 total. 4 guage should do fine under 10 feet or so, especially if the cap is on the amp side of the fuse. The fuse near the battery is there to protect the wire, so don't go too far beyond what the specs say, they are pretty conservative but I have had kids light their carpet on fire trying to get 100 amps through a 10-ga wire. Also, see if there is a HO alt at checker or something that is a factory upgrade, that kind of install should only take 2 hours tops if you are familiar with that kind of mechanic work. If you are going from a 130 to a 160, the primary alternator output wire should not need replacement, if you are going to a 200 or greater, look into a replacement cable to the battery. NEVER hook up the amp wire to the alternator directly you are just looking for alternator noise. Your truck only uses about 100-110 actual amps because the manufacturer expected the average truck owner to hook up lights, trailer, etc... so you have a little extra already.
The best security is to not have anything to steal, but then again your car would be pretty boring.
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