ho alt, proving it is necessary

Pretty much I just ordered a HO alternator from Dominik Iraggi.  300A for my 93 civic si.  Here is what it will be powering:

2 x MTX TA81001 Monoblock Amps (1000W Each at 2Ohms)

2 x MTX T9512-44 Subwoofers (Dual Voice Coils, 12”, 1000 watts RMS each)

1 x Clarion APX640.4 – 4 channel Amp (4 x 80 RMS watts)

4 x Alpine SPR-17S – 6-1/2” Component Speakers                                                                                                                                                                   http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17S

2 x Stinger SC201SC 1-Farad Power Caps

1 x (Forget the brand) 1-Farad Digital Power Cap

2 x Optima Red Top Battery – 34/78 (Brand new Identical Batteries)

1 x Kicker 0 Gauge wiring kit (300 amp fuse)

1 x Kicker FDBA – Fused distribution block

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Here’s an old post by Haemphyst about my 3 amps and what they will theoretically draw:

The 1000 watt amps are digital, yes? 80% efficient. So, 2000w/.8=2500 watts in (sub amps, only)

Now with a big three upgrade at the time of the alternator and battery installation I am confident that I won’t be having any issues with not having enough power. 

However now comes the point of this post. 

Some of my friends noticed that I was paying $450.00 for a HO alternator and they are convinced that since they have “seen” audio systems pushing over “2000 watts” running on one battery and a stock 80 – 120 amp alternator.  That I am stupid and just wasting $$$ on something that is not needed for my setup.  They seem to think that I can run all that with no problem on one battery and a 100 amp alternator.  They find it really hard to believe that those 3 amps will be pulling close to 210 amps if running at full RMS potential.

Even if they aren’t pulling those 210 amps I assume that they would be pulling something at least over that 100 amps they are talking about.  Can you guys give me some sort of tests that I can run in front of their eyes to prove them wrong?  Nothing I can say will convince them otherwise and I hate seeing that smug look in their eyes when the topic comes up.  They think they know everything just because they know the mechanical aspects of a car.

Thanks,

Michael

Very Sorry About that Guys.  Completely forgot about that...Heres the post...can anyone delete the previous post?

Here's the post as it should have looked:

Pretty much I just ordered a HO alternator from Dominik Iraggi.  300A for my 93 civic si.  Here is what it will be powering:

2 x MTX TA81001 Monoblock Amps (1000W Each at 2Ohms)

2 x MTX T9512-44 Subwoofers (Dual Voice Coils, 12”, 1000 watts RMS each)

1 x Clarion APX640.4 – 4 channel Amp (4 x 80 RMS watts)

4 x Alpine SPR-17S – 6-1/2” Component Speakers     

2 x Stinger SC201SC 1-Farad Power Caps

1 x (Forget the brand) 1-Farad Digital Power Cap

2 x Optima Red Top Battery – 34/78 (Brand new Identical Batteries)

1 x Kicker 0 Gauge wiring kit (300 amp fuse)

1 x Kicker FDBA – Fused distribution block

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The 1000 watt amps are digital, yes? 80% efficient. So, 2000w/.8=2500 watts in (sub amps, only)

320W/.6=533 watts in (highs amp)

2500+533=3033 watts in / 14.4v = 210A

That's what you need just for the amplifiers. The Si also had power stuff - windows, defroster, A/C, fog lamps(?)...

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Now with a big three upgrade at the time of the alternator and battery installation I am confident that I won’t be having any issues with not

However now comes the point of this post. 

Some of my friends noticed that I was paying $450.00 for a HO alternator and they are convinced that since they have “seen” audio systems pushing

Even if they aren’t pulling those 210 amps I assume that they would be pulling something at least over that 100 amps they are talking about. 

Thanks,

Michael

450 isn't  a bad deal for a good HO alt - make sure it puts out ~13.8v @ idle tho. . . .

Yea I mean I could get some Lanzar amps and push "over 2000 watts" with a stock electrical setup.  So this observation is sort of worthless - and if this sort of thinking belies the mechanical knowledge your friends have - I wouldn't let monkeys like that within 10 yards of my car with so much as a screwdriver.

If they think you could run - sayy - two of these off a stock electrical system - then they are just stoopid.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=440

Then they can't do math. . .?! 

Not sure what haemph told you, but I think you underestimate your current draw a bit - I doubt your subwoofer amplifiers have an 80% efficiency rating - and 60% sounds a tad high for A/B amplifiers.  But you probably won't be at a constant 210 amps either - music being dynamic and all.  A round 200 amps sounds like a good, safe number to plan for.

The system you plan on running is rather extreme - while you MIGHT get by with a pair of Deep Cycles (Not craptacular Red Tops mind you) - for a system like yours - even I think an HO alt sounds good - and I always recommend this as a last step.

Have you installed these yet?  If not, return them, spend the extra eighty bucks - and get a pair of real batteries. 

These Red's are very poor choices for stereo systems (regardless of what some people around here might tell you) - particularly given the the rest of your system - get a real Deep Cycle dude - maybe a Kinetik or Optima Yellow.  Even with that HO alt - I'm thinking those Reds are NOT going to last ya long. . .

I mean you are correct - they are not. 

Prove them wrong by installing a better/louder system.

Thanks for your response.

However I would still like a way to ultimately prove them wrong.  lets say I replaced the 300 amp fuse on the 0 guage from the battery to the amp with a 150 amp fuse.  (Only for a quick test) would that allow me to run the system and then when the amps pull too much amperage I assume the fuse would break and therefore prove that the amps draw more than 150 amps? 

If that would work would it in ANY WAY damage the system or the wiring?

Um.

If you really want to do what you are talking about - get a $30 DMM from Sears and measure the current in front of them.

I guess your fuse plan would work - but - uhh - I wouldn't purposefully blow a fuse in my car to prove a point - slim chance I guess - but maybe it'd take the ECU with it or some other gawdawful side effect. 

I think this is a stupid thing to do purposefully.  Like driving into a wall to test the seatbelt.

May be stupid but they do do it do they not? haha

I like the DDM idea better, however does an ammeter not have to be placed in series to measure the current flow?  And in that case would the size of the ammeter not limit the amount of current available to flow through?

Im not an electrician so please correct me if i am wrong.

Um.  This reads sort of like a joke - so I'm not sure how literally you mean this - but I feel compelled to point out that if he does exactly what you are saying he will - uhh - ruin his Red Tops.

So don't do that twobig. 

I'm with Sedate on this one. Show them the numbers and formulas that haemph posted. Then ask them to refute the mathematical equations if they still don't believe. You'll just make them look more stupid than they already are. And then you can be the one with the smug look on your face