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remote start 06 town and country


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chriswallace187 
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Posted: July 24, 2008 at 2:58 PM / IP Logged  
The data wire connected at the OBD-II plug controls the doorlocks.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
akwormy 
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Posted: July 24, 2008 at 3:23 PM / IP Logged  

ok ok, I was wondering just how much that DATA wire did, perfect!

I think I got mixed up on the function of the bypass, for some reason I thought it was telling the remote start to unlock...but it's the other way around - the remote start tells the bypass to unlock and it tells the vehicle through the data wire...I'm with you now!

So let me see if I have this right for another system - say trunk release (hatch actually I guess) I just take the trunk release wire from the bypass, to one of the open programmable outs and I'm done - control to the vehicle happens via the data wire?

In this case programmable output #3 is defaulted to trunk release so I should use it

How about sliding doors? Left sliding door wire from the bypass goes to another programmable out on the RS - what program would I set that to? Available options look like -

I don't think it's any of these (pulse before start, pulse after shutdown, ground while running, park lights, pulse after startup, pulse on 2nd unlock, ignition, starter, pulse after ignition off, dome light, or ground when locked)

that leaves these as possibilities - accessory, trunk release or utility 1 (but we've already used trunk release so I guess that is out)

akwormy 
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Posted: July 24, 2008 at 5:15 PM / IP Logged  

actually looking at the bypass instructions (and the right software version) I see a special diode wiring setup for sliding doors and hatch...(figure 2 here) http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=578

looks like you connnect the left slider wire (pink) on the bypass to an AUX out on RS then;

connect the right side slider wire (orange) on the bypass to another AUX out on the RS

Then you diode isolate each sliding door wire (pink and orange) and join them - this new left/right "combo" wire goes to the trunk release on the RS

apparently the bypass is set for a negative pulse on one wire to open that door, negative pulse on the other wire to open the opposite door, and a negative pulse on both wires to trigger the trunk/hatch release

I've got four programmable outs, so this should be easy.

The only thing I have yet to figure out is what option I should program those AUX outs on the RS for to control these doors.

akwormy 
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Joined: December 04, 2005
Posted: July 24, 2008 at 7:28 PM / IP Logged  

A few easy questions I'm sure -

  • I don't think the bypass does park lights is that right? Which is preferred - negative trigger with diode and resistor or can you just use the positive wire? (looks like maybe there is left and right on the positive wire though...) "Parking Lights + WHITE/ brn (L), WHITE/ org (R)"
  • How about the horn - wiring info doesn't indicate horn on this vehicle is low power, so tapping the horn switch wire should be fine?
  • One more - thinking of using the programmable relay (P5) on the RS to trigger defrost, but no wiring info on the vehicle wiring page ( 06 caravan). anyone have info on what wire, where, and how to run it? (assuming if it's negative trigger like the doors it would be 87 to ground and 30 to the existing relay if I can get to it?)
chriswallace187 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 25, 2008 at 1:34 PM / IP Logged  
Your horn wire should be low current and hence a direct connection will work.
For parking lights you could use the multiplex wire from the switch, or tap onto the parking light relay's control terminal.
For defrost I did a van like yours once and just used the control terminal from the defroster relay, which is in the underhood fusebox.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
akwormy 
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Joined: December 04, 2005
Posted: August 01, 2008 at 11:12 AM / IP Logged  

Well I got my XK532 and have flashed to CHDL6 3.0

going to tackle the install this weekend

I think the only thing I still need help with is what settings to use when setting up the programmable outs on the remote start for controlling power sliding doors and defroster.

akwormy 
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Joined: December 04, 2005
Posted: August 01, 2008 at 11:44 AM / IP Logged  
oops one more - is there by chance a hood trigger that I can tap instead of installing the switch that came with the autostart?
chriswallace187 
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Posted: August 01, 2008 at 7:31 PM / IP Logged  
Driver's side fender under the hood - there will be a bracket about halfway up. If there's a factory hood pin switch there, you might could wire into it. If not, you can use the bracket to mount your own switch.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
akwormy 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: December 04, 2005
Posted: August 02, 2008 at 1:46 AM / IP Logged  

yep that's the same spot I picked...

Chris a couple things on earlier comments -

you said multiplex wire at the switch? Any idea which? The wiring diagram here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~85738 shows a left wire and a right wire - I'm seeing those coded wires at the switch so not sure what to tap.

Defroster relay - wow I got a rude surprise here. Nothing in the underhood fusebox on defrost - looked in the manual and it says there is nothing serviceable and that they are in the center dash pod (with the climate controls, radio etc) I took a few panels off to attempt to find something with no luck. If there in there and there's an easy way to get to it I'd love some advice!

Any good ground location suggestions? I see a bolt with a bunch of grounds attached to it on the under side of the dash behind the park switch - tought to get to but is looking like a good spot - unless theres a better one or a reason not to tie to those.

akwormy 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: December 04, 2005
Posted: August 03, 2008 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged  

I've got a few problems, hopefully someone can help with some advice

no go on transponder bypass - the 532 module is defective (thinks it is a platform 3 instead of a 532 and won't take 532 firmware CHDL6+3.00)

Lock and unlock - the functions are backwards. Hit lock on the remote and the van unlocks and hit unlock and it locks. Double checked wiring "87's to ground, 87a's to nothing, and 30's to the respective wires on the bypass"

so I thought the bypass was simply wired backwards...wouldn't surprise me so far...

swapped wires and same results - backwards function

  • Why the backwards lock / unlock functions?

Also I got no results from hatch release or either side power sliding door. I wired them as shown in the firmware wiring guide (here http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=578)

I realized that I don't know what buttons on the 4 button remote to push to operate trunk release and the other programmable outputs. I pushed lots of buttons and got no results, but theoretically they may be working and I didn't push the right buttons.

  • Can anyone tell me what button combos to use on the remote for programmable outs 1, 2, and 3?
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