2008 Suzuki GSXR600 Spy Alarm

rc36: connect either the pink or the gray wire (they both do the same thing) to 85 then connect 86 to +12v. (or the other way around since as long as one end of the coil gets + and the other - it don't really matter UNLESS your relay has a diode across the coil, if it has a diode connect it as the diode shows). I didn't try to use the auto start since there is no built in safety override like cars have (pushing brakes or opening hood) meaning someone could ride away with your bike for the 10min it is running. Normally using ground to switch a relay on is not recommended since if the wire broke off or the insulation got rubbed off the wire and grounded on the frame it would activate the relay; but thats why this alarm is so cheap compared to the others. Oh on another note there is kind of a weird way to prevent the alarm from rearming once disarmed (besides turning the engine on)...if you create enough of a vibration (as in enough of a vibration that would normally trip off the shock sensor when armed) anywhere near the brain it will not auto-rearm (unless you push the arm button of course!)...I assume this is the brain thinking that the disarm was intentional.

Sorry I made things confusing....when the alarm is not armed or the alarm has no power, the pink and gray wire become internally connected by an on board relay, this is fine but when someone trys to start the bike when its armed the on board relay takes the pink and gray wire to ground which is why it blows fuses; this could be a good thing if it blows only when someone trys to steal the bike but if you forget to disarm before starting it will be a bad thing. The wire they say “cut� is the one you need to connect to the kill relay, one side to 30 and other to 87a. The "other wire" (pink or gray whichever is unused) is not needed for the kill relay but if you want to use remote start you use it as mentioned below. The remote start part I did play with before but I can't fully remember exactly how it worked since I decided not to do it once I realized there were no safeties, so everything I list below this point you might want to double check with a volt meter (which you should always do regarding anything from the internet). I think when you remote start, the alarm takes both pink and gray wires to +12v. So if you want to use the remote start take either the gray or pink wire (whichever one you didn’t connect to the starter kill relay), solder a diode to it (solder opposite of the white line on diode) then solder the other end to the wire that would be the same as having the key in the on position with regard to 12v. Make sure you use a diode that can handle the 12v and current demand. You need the diode since as mentioned in the first paragraph about the fuse blowing…the diode will prevent the fuse blowing condition. Also you need to check your bike’s wiring diagram to see if there are any anti-theft measures that need to be bypassed, this part is important since some bikes (like my F4i) has a zener diode that needs to be bypassed or it will blow preventing the bike from ever starting by key or remote. There is another wire I think its called the “start wire� that needs to tap into the start wire after the switch (some people call it “down� from switch). Once all this is done you should have an alarm that won’t blow fuses, will prevent the engine from being started when armed, and remotely start the bike. Hope this helps!