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jl 1000/1, custom 13w7 box?


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97ssei61 
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Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posted: October 22, 2008 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged  
oil>>lil
megaman 
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Copper spacespace
Joined: June 24, 2008
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: October 22, 2008 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged  
just use 1" plexi for the rear of the enclosure.  I've done it a few times with the 13W7.  The width and length were not too extreme so it worked fine. 
emptypockets426 
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Member spacespace
Joined: September 12, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 22, 2008 at 11:21 AM / IP Logged  
Never cover an amp, especially an amp that size. Heat has to be able to escape. You can cover the amp with plexi but try to find a way to cool the amp. Maybe use a small computer fan under the amp and make ports somehow under the amp to allow air flow. Sounds tough but it's actually pretty simple. My suggestion is coming up with a floating amp rack with a plexi cover...maybe some lights...this way although it has a plexi cover on top...it won't get hot because its floating. When you open the trunk, no one has to see under the amp, they just see the top. the nicer you make the top...the less people have to critique.
97ssei61 
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Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posted: October 22, 2008 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged  
I am planning a custom install of a 13w7 in my car and plan on having the speaker face the rear seat. I'm using 3/4 mdf for the sides, top and bottom and 1" for the front where the speaker goes. My question is I want to use plexiglass for the back so u can see the read of the sub from the trunk, what thickness should I use. I was thinking 1" is that enough for that sub and I would like to light up the inside of the box when I open the trunk, what would be the best way to do that?
Thanks in advance!
bobonit 
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Member spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: October 28, 2008 at 11:24 AM / IP Logged  

JL Audio's website does state 1" MDF for the mounting plate in the manual for the 13W7. 

I'm glad I found this post, I would like to do the same type of enclosure with windows viewable from the trunk so you see the rear of the speakers.

For lighting, you could just mount some LED's inside the enclosure.  They will be able to handle the vibrations and you get some very bright ones for cheap.  I have some blue superbright 5mm led's I was thinking of mounting inside where you can't see them, just aim them so the lighting looks good.

97ssei61 
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Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posted: December 05, 2008 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  

heres my problem, I have a JL1000/1 hooked up to my 13w7. I have 4ga ran with only a 100a fuse(which keeps blowing) i know from here that i should have a 150a fuse in. when i went to pick one up at the audio shop the guy was asking me about my setup and told me i should put 0/1ga in with at the least a 350a fuse and have an extra battery in and upgrade my alternator. which he would gladly sell and install. IMO i really got the feeling he was just worried about sales than actually helping me.

JLs manual for the amp states :

The 1000/1's "+12 VDC" and "Ground" connections are designed to accept 4 AWG power wire. 4 AWG is the only recommended power wire size for this amplifier.

so should i stick with the 4ga and up the fuse to 150 or follow the advice from the guy at the shop?

should i use the tube fuses, the oversized pronged one, the L shaped one, or a breaker?does it even matter?

i would really like to bang this setup without blowing a fuse every 2 minutes so u can hear me coming, any and all help/advice is greatly appreciated!

97ssei61 
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Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posted: December 06, 2008 at 9:47 AM / IP Logged  
?anyone?
97ssei61 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posted: December 07, 2008 at 8:35 AM / IP Logged  
come onsomeone help so i cant get it done? any advice
soundnsecurity 
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 07, 2008 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged  
you should use a maxi fuse. the ones that looks like a giant regular fuse. i hate the glass fuses because some times they dont blow like they should and it makes it very hard to tell if it is blown. that guy at the shop was just trying to sell you something you dont need. a 350 amp fuse is ridiculous for a 1000/1
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