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06 envoy, remote start


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blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 29, 2008 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged  
just did an 07 trailblazer and used a GMDLBP for Passlock2 bypass and locks. worked perfectly. do your lock outputs show a negative  pulse when you use the remote. if so its your xk01. the GMDLBP is a little more expensive but will definitely work on your vehicle.
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 10:02 AM / IP Logged  
It was the XK01.. Got the new one yesterday and everything worked.
Thanks
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 10:03 AM / IP Logged  
Has anyone ever had any problems with the tach wire in an Envoy? All the diagrams I have say it's the white wire in the blue connector for the 4.2 liter. I see two white wires in that bundle and have hooked them both up and neither of them are testing as tach for my remote starter..
Any ideas? I was literally working for over an hour just on the tach.. It's starting up fine but I have a feeling when it drops below 20-30* I will be getting a call..
Thanks
wkndracr 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2005
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 10:40 AM / IP Logged  

There's no need for tack on an envoy.  the bcm starts the car and will automatically compensate for under or over crank.  I always turn engine check off and set crank time for 1.0 sec (on the DEI systems I install), and have never had a problem. 

This is true for all newer GM's.  to test for yourself, try to start the car by just touching the key to the start position.  most likely, the starter will still stay engaged as long as it needs to even after you let the key go. 

tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 10:57 AM / IP Logged  
I hope that's the case.. I just have a bad feeling they will be calling..
Thanks for the reply!
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 13, 2008 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, so they are having issues.. They just dropped it off last night so it sat cold all night and it's 17* here so a good test..
It remote started fine... Ran for a few MINUTES and then shut off.. Remote started again on it's own and has been running fine ever since.. He said one day he was out shoveling snow, he had remote started it, and noticed it just shut off after a few minutes.. I *think* he said it tried remote starting again and it didn't..
I've installed around 30 and never seen any car shut off after a couple minutes of running and then restart.. I've seen them retry three times on the initial start (if tach wire wasn't hooked up etc)..
Any ideas on what to check or anyone see this before?
Thanks
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 14, 2008 at 3:16 PM / IP Logged  
I've just mentioned it in another post actually - I've had some late model GMs not working well with voltage sensing, where they'll shut off after a minute or so.
You should be able to use a fuel injector for a tach signal pretty easily. Most wiring info gives you the PCM pin and wire location but I think an injector or coil is much easier to get at and works just as well.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
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tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged  
I tried like 6 or 7 different supposedly tach wires (from the diagrams I had).. They all said the white wire in the blue harness.. Well there were multiple white wires, I tested all of them and none worked (not sure how to test them with a DMM so if anyone knows how and could post it that would be great)..
I just tested by using the remote start brain and putting it in "tach finder" mode..
This freaking sucks because if I can't find the tach wire how am I supposed to fix this?
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged  
"NOTE *3 The PCM (Power Control Module) is located on the DRIVERS SIDE of the ENGINE, on the 4.2L engine, it is a BLUE Plug, Pin 49. On the 5.3L engine it is on the LOWER front driver side of engine GREEN Plug Pin 10."
Could NOT find it.. :(
joch1314 
Copper - Posts: 301
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged  

To test your tach wire with a DMM you need to set your meter to Volts AC.  Then ground the negative probe.... and hook your positive probe to the suspect wire.  If you read between 1 and 7 volts AC then you have the correct wire and continue with the tach learning to get it done.  If you get nothing.....keep trying till you do!  Don't give up even though you may get frustrated....attack it with a cool head and I'm sure you'll win.  

...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..
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