rs 1000 in 2001 chevrolet silverado

Hi, This my first remote start/alarm install so I'm going to need some help throughout the process. I want to start this coming weekend but I need to straighten out some things first. I decided to go with the relay and resistor bypass as I don't have any more money for a module. I found this diagram somewhere (not sure where, all credit to the original author). But I am a little confused as to where my starter wires from the remote unit go. So if someone could point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated. Truck: 2001 Chevy Silverado LT 5.3L Wiring info from the install manual. H1: Violet - Starter output (this wire wants +12v when ignition is in start only and no voltage when in any other position) Red (2 wires connected together) - +12v Power input (do i need to seperate these or in there only one wire in the truck to hook it up to?) Yellow - Ignition 1 ( wants 12 volts when in run or start) Pink - Ignition 2 ( same as yellow but some vehicles need 2, do I need this one?) Brown - Accessory ( I understand this connects to orange wire in truck?) H10: Yellow - (-)200mA Ignition 3 output ( I think this goes to pin 85 on the relay?) The thing that confusing me is I don't where the wires from H1 go when using the resistor bypass. So if someone could explain where one goes and also where the ones from the relay go, that would be very appreciated. Thanks, Bertleaf

I did some more research and reading around and got mostly cleared up on this one I think. The bypass and ignition wires are actually separate. Wire on Remote start | Wire in truck ----------------------------------------------- Violet | Yellow (+) Red     | Red (+) Red     | Red (+) Yellow | Pink (+) Pink    | White (+) Brown   | Orange (+) H10: Yellow            | Pin 85 on bypass relay I still have a few questions: 1. Does anyone care to confirm the above information? 2. What would be a good place for a +12v source for pin 86 on the bypass relay? Would one of the red ignition wires work? 3. I have a 30/40A 12V relay that came with the remote starter. Will that work as the bypass relay? 4. Should I diode isolate any of the wires in the bypass circuit or even any of the connections made to the ignition wires? Thanks and sorry about all the questions but I'm new. Bertleaf

Thanks for the reply. So you would just hook pin 86 up to either (not both) of the red wires? What size fuse would be good for this? Both wires have a fuse holder and 20 amp fuse before the enter the remote unit's brain. I'm assuming you mean yet another fuse holder and fuse, that is in the wire going to pin 86.

yes, another fuse for the wire going to term 86 on the relay. either wire is fine. and use no larger than an 10a fuse

Thank You ckeeler. I am stuck on how to do the doors. I've tried searching but it seems that every post I end up at uses some sort of module and again, I didn't budget for any extra parts so I would like to do it without if possible. Is it possible to just tap into different wires? Does anyone have any links or diagrams handy that could get me started with this? Or does anyone know and can explain? There are a number of wires on the remote start unit which can be used for doors but for most it says you may need them, but you may not so I am not sure where to even start. Any info you got is helpful, I need a place to start looking, thanks.

The lock and unlock wires on the '01 Silverado are low current positive trigger at the BCM - light blue and white respectively...what kind of outputs does your RS1000 have? The doorlocks on Silverados and other full-size GM trucks didn't require a data module until '03 model year.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Are lock and rearm and unlock and disarm factory security considered the same thing? The unit has the following wires. H10/16 violet wire - Positive door switch sensing input (zone 3) This wire is the positive trigger input wire for positive door pin switch. This wire is connection for "positive" type factory door pins. Locate the "common wire"for all door pins and make the connection of the violet here. H10/17 Green wire - negative door switch sensing unit input (zone 3) This wire is the ground trigger input wire for negative door pin switch. This wire is connection for "grounding" type factory door pins locate the "common wire" that connects the door pin switches. Make the connection of the green wire here. H10/3 Pink wire - (-) 200mA Programmamble Output This one can be programmed as either: 2 Steps Unlock Output or Factory Security Disarm Signal Output or Start Status (Shock Sensor By-Pass Control) Output H10/8 Brown wire - 200mA Pprogrammable Output Factory Security Rearm Signal Output - This wire will supply a pulse whenever the remote start times out or is shut down using the transmitter and remote door locking.

No they're not at all the same. None of those wires, the pink H10/3 excepted, is specifically going to operate doorlocks. The first two are inputs to let the alarm know when a door is opened so that it triggers. The pink is only designed to unlock the passenger doors on the second press of the button if you program it that way. There absolutely has to be some other connector on your alarm with lock/unlock wires, if they are saying a wire can be programmed for 2nd unlock. Who's the manufacturer of this RS1000?C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

The brand is Autopage. Autopage RS-1000 I saw the first two were inputs but I looked through the install manual twice and couldn't find anything, maybe I'm just missing something really obvious. I was not able to find a copy of the manual online for you to have a look.