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starter grinding with remote start, 03 xterra


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Mike M2 
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Posted: December 13, 2008 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged  
Tach is an alternating current and will vary in voltage. What do you have the tach connected to and did you program it?
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
saleengt2001 
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Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: December 13, 2008 at 9:39 PM / IP Logged  
heres how i have it wired up
Purple - output to starter, used 2 relays to energize blk/yel and blk/grn wires in harness
Red - 12V, wht/red wire in harness
Orange - acc output, Red wire in harness
Pink - Ign circuit, Blk/Wht wire in harness
Red - 12V, same wht/red in harness
Tach - pnk/blu at Cruise control module (only seeing 6-7 volts when running and doesnt change much with RPM???)
on the second harness i only used the ground wire, brake wire which is working correctly, and the tach wire.
i did not use the following wires at all
park light
alarm disarm
remote activation input
hood pin shutdown
200ma status output
this is the info i'm going off of. it is from the Boa site. some wires are different colors than this site says. the Boa wires are at the IGN cly and the wire colors on here are taken from the first connector down from the IGN harness. the info is the same. i matched all the wires up and they are right on both sites.
12volts      WHITE/ Red      +      Ignition Harness
Starter      BLACK / YELLOW      +      Ignition Harness
Second Starter      BLACK/ Green      +      Ignition Harness
Ignition      BLACK/ White      +      Ignition Harness
Second Ignition                 
Third Ignition                 
Accessory      Red      +      Ignition Harness
Tachometer      Pink/Blue      6 Cyl      At Cruise Control Module
Notes for this item : You need to send a Neg (-) " Start Pulse " on this Wire for the " Clutch Bypass".
Wait to start                 
Brake Wire      BROWN / Red      -      At Cruise Control Module
Notes for this item : The cruise control module is located above the emergency brake pedal in the driver*s kick. There you can find the tach as well as the brake wire in the gray plug!
sorry for the long post. i'm trying to give as much info as possible!
thanks for the help
KPierson 
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Posted: December 13, 2008 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  

Tach signals are NOT alternating current or voltage - they are pulsing DC signals.  They never go negative, something an "alternating" current must do.

The best way to verify a tach wire is to use a volt meter that reads frequency (quite a few "cheap" Craftsman meters will do it).  Most cars tach signals will read around 11hz at idle and increase with RPM.

It sounds like you have the starter relays hooked up wrong - most remote starts should time out after a few seconds (10 at most).  If it cranks until you make it stop I would guess you are driving your relays with the wrong signal.

Kevin Pierson
saleengt2001 
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Posted: December 13, 2008 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  
Mike M2 wrote:
Tach is an alternating current and will vary in voltage. What do you have the tach connected to and did you program it?
the tach is hooked up at the cruise control module in the drivers kick panel. when the engine is running it will stay between 6.7 and 7.0 volts even when i rev the engine
saleengt2001 
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Joined: December 13, 2008
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Posted: December 13, 2008 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:

Tach signals are NOT alternating current or voltage - they are pulsing DC signals. They never go negative, something an "alternating" current must do.

The best way to verify a tach wire is to use a volt meter that reads frequency (quite a few "cheap" Craftsman meters will do it). Most cars tach signals will read around 11hz at idle and increase with RPM.

It sounds like you have the starter relays hooked up wrong - most remote starts should time out after a few seconds (10 at most). If it cranks until you make it stop I would guess you are driving your relays with the wrong signal.

the relays are triggered from the purple (12V to starter circuit wire from the RS) both relays share a constant (split) 12V hot wire and ground wire
saleengt2001 
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Posted: December 14, 2008 at 7:13 AM / IP Logged  
everything sound right?
KPierson 
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Posted: December 14, 2008 at 8:12 AM / IP Logged  

Can you set the unit to voltage monitoring to rule out the tach wire being an issue?

Kevin Pierson
Mike M2 
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Posted: December 14, 2008 at 10:41 AM / IP Logged  
The wire you are connected to is the correct wire according to DEI(which by the way lists it as an ALTERNATING CURRENT). As for the starter, MANY do not time out the starter. Both DEI and Avox units will grind the starter if it doesn't see a tach once it has been programmed. Take either manufacturers units in a working car and disconnect the tach wire, they WILL grind the starter unitl it turns off. You could try using an injector wire just to see if it will work for you....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
jrilla 
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Posted: December 14, 2008 at 11:00 AM / IP Logged  
Forgive me if I missed something, but the remote starter will not output any voltage on the starter wire when you activate the remote starter when the engine is running, it will just turn on the Acc and Ign wires.
I still think you might have the wrong wires hooked up somewhere. I show the 2 starter wires being BLACK / YELLOW and GREEN/ YELLOW. Did you test the wires before connecting to them? I also show 12v+ as Green and Acc as RED / Yellow. This is a 2003 Nissan Xterra ,right?
saleengt2001 
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Posted: December 14, 2008 at 5:16 PM / IP Logged  
yes it is an 03 xterra. the wires you listed are at the connector about 12" down from the ignition switch. i connected mine at the ignition switch thus the different colors
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