1999 cavalier, remote start issues

the black wire you hooked to the passlock ground can just be grounded instead of being connected to this wire. i dont remember having to use this wire like you did even though that is what it is for. bulb check? is your car a diesel? if not dont worry about this wire make sure you have you yellow and yellow/blk wires connected in the correct direction also try unhooking the pink wire coming from the bypass that you hooked to ignition and see what happens

are you sure you are dealing with passlock 1 and not passlock 2?

COLOR          POLARITY          LOCATION                Battery          RED (2)          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS                Ignition 1          PINK          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS                Ignition 2          WHITE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PCM+CLUSTER                Accessory 1          ORANGE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (HEAT/A.C.)                Starter 1          YELLOW          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS                Anti-Theft Type          RESISTOR BASED SYS                Anti-Theft Descript          PASSLOCK                Key Sense          LIGHT GREEN          (-)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS                Neutral Safety          YELLOW          (-)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS                Tachometer          VIOLET/WHITE          (AC)          PIN 8 OF BLU PCM CONN PASS KICK PANEL                Speed Sense          VIOLET          (AC)          PIN 61 PCM BEHIND DRIVERS KICK PANEL                Parking Lights          BROWN          (+)          LIGHT SWITCH HARNESS                Brake Lights          WHITE          (+)          AT BRAKE SWITCH                Reverse Lights          LIGHT GREEN          (+)          AT SWITCH ON TRANSAXLE                Horn          BLACK according to this, you have passlock 1. with that said, you have too many wires connected for your bypass. you dont need the 2nd starter or bulb check wire. this is how you should wire your bypass. red- 12v constant black- ground pink- ignition 1 blue- remote start (-)status output yellow- r-code wire, key side blk / YELLOW- r-code wire, other side. note, make sure your solder is good on this wire because any extra resistance will throw off the reading these are all the wires you should need. hook it up like this and re-program the bypass, and try it. if that doesn't work, try a new bypass if you can or you can try it the old fashioned way http://documents.audiovox.com/700056.pdf

http://documents.audiovox.com/700056.pdf i was just reading this link and up at the top it says that passlock 1 only went up to 96. so you must have passlock 2, but you can still wire the bypass like i have it in the last post. and it seems like this was probably your problem all along because you had it wired for passlock 1. hope this helps

hobojoe wrote: According to the instructions that came with the bypass unit the bulb check needs to be hooked to the wire on the car, and it needs a (-) starter signal from the RS unit. Is it possible that the 2nd starter out from the RS to the bypass is incorrect?

yep, dont need it.

The vehicle is Passlock 1, passlock 1 goes from 96-99.

There is no issue with the bypass wiring, if there was an issue with the bypass wiring the car would crank with the key when the bypass is unhooked. But it does not crank with the bypass unhooked WHILE the RS unit is hooked up. As long as the RS unit is plugged in the car will not crank with the key.

Tested the following situations.

Nothing hooked up: CranksJust bypass hooked up: cranksJust RS unit: no crankboth RS and bypass: no crank

So it seems like there is an issue with the RS unit, which i'm sure everything is hooked up correctly. It had to have worked at one time because i wouldn't have been able to learn the tach if it did not. I had both units plugged in and started the car with the key to learn the tach.

This is interesting...in theory you would expect nothing to happen with the bypass unplugged, since the R-code wire has been cut. Stupid question, but you did cut the yellow R-code wire on the car and wire the yellow from the 556L to the key cylinder side and the BLACK / YELLOW to the BCM side, correct? Also, what's the voltage reading on the heavy gauge yellow starter wire on the car when you're getting the "will not crank" condition?C Renner's Auto Electronix

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