2001 yukon, bulldog rs1200e

You can hook up the hood pin but in about 2 yrs it will be inop-- due to corrosion- so why bother?  The hood pin  switch is not wired in a failsafe mode- it must see a ground to disable-- a failsafe would be designed that it must see a ground to enable the starter-  but then you would have remote starts that don't start (again due to corrosion) -  all remote starters are like this. So tell me about the safety first aspect- the remote start designers would rather see their product work all the time, then to be concerned about it starting when someone is under the hood. Their design proves this.  Other wise they would use stainless steel hood pins, or mercury switches, or reverse the failsafe mode.   I have seen at least a dozen hood pins go inop over the last ten years- all due to corrosion

Corroded or not, you will never know that the switch is not working- unless you test for it- so there goes the mechanics fingers- all due to poor engineering design and our friend Mr Corrosion.  A really prudent installer uses a mercury switch.

which locks dont work drivers door or pass. door or all of them. gm has had problems with the master switch going bad which is at the drivers door. may want to check and see if the pass. side lock switch works.

You should NEVER hook anything up if your arn't sure it's the right wire.  That is how sensitive electronic modules get damaged.

It's impossible to say where you hooked the (-) unlock output up and what kind of damage was done when the output sent a ground signal to the unidentified wire.

In your case I would recomend unhooking everything and focusing on getting the OEM stuff back working again.  If you are lucky it's only a fuse, if you aren't lucky it's a BCM.

Then, once the car is fixed, if you still want the system installed either purchase a volt meter and learn to use it or take it a shop that can properly identify the wires in the vehicle.  Hooking things up blindly is a guarenteed way to damage something.

So you did verify the wire?  Your initial description didn't mention using a meter, just that you hooked it up to the wire that you "thought was in the correct bin location based on the instructions. "  Any installer will tell you that the instructions arn't always right, and sometimes, like in your case, when they are there can be several possibilities in that general location.

How did you make your connections?  Is there any possibility that the BCM output wire was cut and not connected back together properly?

Does the vehicle have an OEM keyless sytstem?  If so, does it still work?