add on alarm and remote start problem

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Mike M2

Platinum - Posts: 2,652

Joined: June 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 6:32 AM / IP Logged

Here is a simple diagram showing a 2 door car. You need to just do this for all 4 doors and tie them all to the alarm negative door trigger input.

add on alarm and remote start problem - Page 2 -- posted image.

The LF door is blue at the BCM, 26 pin plug, pin 24

The RF door is yellow at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 21

The LR door is Lt. green at the fuse box, right side, 13 pin plug, pin 7

The RR door is gray at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 5 or 7

The BCM is attched to the back of the fuse box behind the driver knee bolster.

You may find it easier to go to the kickpanels and get the wires there.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Unclemike1

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: December 07, 2004

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged

Chris Luongo wrote:

About the diodes:

https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp

Look at that page, about halfway down on the left. The diagram shows a two-door car, but you could simply add two more diodes to the setup, and connect them to your rear door wires.

By the way, where was your install done? In Massachusetts by chance? That combination of products sounds like something some of my co-workers (from our other location) have used.

Regardless, whoever installed it should fix this issue under warranty at no cost to you.

It's also an issue I'd never thought of before. If I get the occasion to install this setup again, I'll check the car's domelight to see if it comes on at shutdown.

Most alarm/start combination units are smart enough to ignore the door trigger at startup and shutdown, but since the PRO9233 isn't generally expected to be installed along with a remote starter, they didn't include that feature.

Yes the system was installed by a company out of mass. The name is Auto Sound. Are youfamiliar with them?

Unclemike1

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: December 07, 2004

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged

Mike M2 wrote:

Here is a simple diagram showing a 2 door car. You need to just do this for all 4 doors and tie them all to the alarm negative door trigger input.

The LF door is blue at the BCM, 26 pin plug, pin 24

The RF door is yellow at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 21

The LR door is Lt. green at the fuse box, right side, 13 pin plug, pin 7

The RR door is gray at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 5 or 7

The BCM is attched to the back of the fuse box behind the driver knee bolster.

You may find it easier to go to the kickpanels and get the wires there.

I can't find those colors at the BCU at all. The car is a Camry LE that doesn't come with a factory security system at all. Does this make a difference in the BCM?

Mike M2

Platinum - Posts: 2,652

Joined: June 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 06, 2009 at 7:25 PM / IP Logged

Again, it probably is easier to go to both kickpanels and get both front and rear there. I seem to recall doing this before and the wires being on the back of the BCM making them hard to get to.

Also this may help. On the 4 runner, if you don't connect the accessory wire on the RS the domelight does not come on after it shuts off. All this does is stop the radio from working while remote started. It may be the same on the Camry. You could try disconnecting the fat purple wire on the 9051 and see what happens.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Unclemike1

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: December 07, 2004

Posted: January 07, 2009 at 5:07 AM / IP Logged

Mike M2 wrote:

Again, it probably is easier to go to both kickpanels and get both front and rear there. I seem to recall doing this before and the wires being on the back of the BCM making them hard to get to.

I will definitely try this today when i get out of work. Yeah, there is a lot of wires going to the BCM. Maybe that does explain why I can't see all of them. Thanks

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: January 07, 2009 at 6:30 AM / IP Logged

UNCLEMIKE1 wrote:

Yes the system was installed by a company out of mass. The name is Auto Sound. Are you familiar with them?

I thought so, that's where I work!

We have two locations, one in Middleton, the other in Plainville. I work in Middleton. I'm guessing your car was done out of Plainville.

I'm just an installer, and please understand that I don't handle appointments, warranty issues or any of that. I just come to the forums for the technical stuff.

But the company I work for does stand behind their work, and I'm sure they'll correct the problem for you at no charge.

If you call the dealer you bought the car from, talk to the salesman, he'll set up a time for you to bring the car back to the dealer (you may need to drop it off and leave it there), and an installer would come there and fix it.

If you are near Plainville, you could call 508-643-9925, ask for Trevor, and see if you could bring it right in there to them.

It might be even easier for you to just wait until the car needs its next service (oil change or whatever), drop it at the dealer, and have the service done and the alarm fixed on the same day.....just an idea.

But definitely call either the dealership (best) or Trevor, and I'm sure they'll get it taken care of for you.

Unclemike1

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: December 07, 2004

Posted: January 07, 2009 at 6:03 PM / IP Logged

Chris Luongo wrote:

UNCLEMIKE1 wrote:

Yes the system was installed by a company out of mass. The name is Auto Sound. Are you familiar with them?

I thought so, that's where I work!

We have two locations, one in Middleton, the other in Plainville. I work in Middleton. I'm guessing your car was done out of Plainville.

I'm just an installer, and please understand that I don't handle appointments, warranty issues or any of that. I just come to the forums for the technical stuff.

But the company I work for does stand behind their work, and I'm sure they'll correct the problem for you at no charge.

If you are near Plainville, you could call 508-643-9925, ask for Trevor, and see if you could bring it right in there to them.

But definitely call either the dealership (best) or Trevor, and I'm sure they'll get it taken care of for you.

Dude, before I start my rants and raves about this whole thing let me say that in no way am I trying to vent on you or anything. I called Trevor and asked him if we could go to each door trigger and diode isolate instead of using the dome light wire. He told me that it couldn't be done and I asked him why and he told me that the LE camry has a different BCM than the XLE etc. So isolating each door couldn't be done (cough, cough, bulldoodieter). LOL. I mean common, after Trevor told me that they have done about a 1000 toyotas this year and have had similar problems before with SOME of them tells me this dude doesn't know his stuff (deep breath). If this is what you do for a living you should really know your stuff. Especially if the body style of the car has been around for a couple of years. I install on the side myself and I'm very familiar with wiring. When I post a question on this forum I like to play stupid for a while until my question is answered. I went out side and pulled out each door switch to check the colors against the Audiovox info and they all match, which again tells me that Trevor doesn't know his stuff. The other problem that I have is that every installer knows that if the headlights on older models are left on when the car is turned off they need to see the door open to turn off the lights. The new Toyotas have a setting called AUTO, its the same thing the door still needs to be opened to get the headlights to turn off. How come none of you guys wire in a relay to either the ignition or use the black w/red wire on the module for a pulsed output after shutdown to interrupt the drivers door switch and introduce a ground so that the lights turn off after shut down? I guess to answer my own question, more work more money right? Well if you have to get paid for it raise the price that the dealer tells us it will cost and start doing this as a standard. You guys do very clean work and I'm not trying to take that away from you, but I'm not a 90 year old lady who isn't going to know the difference, ya know? I have a big pet peeve about things that aren't done the right way and when I have to deal with salesman or people like Trevor, it rubs me the wrong way because talking to them is like talking to a brick wall (deep breath). Sorry about the rants, but i had to let it out man, ya know? Its just frustration. I do appreciate the replies and look forward to speaking to you again. Thanks

ckeeler

Gold - Posts: 1,461

Joined: June 20, 2008

Location: New Mexico, United States

Posted: January 07, 2009 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged

UNCLEMIKE1 wrote:

The other problem that I have is that every installer knows that if the headlights on older models are left on when the car is turned off they need to see the door open to turn off the lights. The new Toyotas have a setting called AUTO, its the same thing the door still needs to be opened to get the headlights to turn off. How come none of you guys wire in a relay to either the ignition or use the black w/red wire on the module for a pulsed output after shutdown to interrupt the drivers door switch and introduce a ground so that the lights turn off after shut down?

you mean that store that did the install when you say "none of you guys" right? there are lots of guys on here that always pulse the door pin wire to shut off the headlights. i always do. heck sometimes i even break a wire at the back of the switch with a relay so they dont even come on during remote start. on some newer GM's the auto headlight feature is defeated if the BCM sees the parking brake on, in which case i connect the GWR to the emergency brake wire so the headlights wont come on. works great. i am a little suprised they didnt hook up that wire to turn off your headlights though.....i mean dang....its only one more wire.

P.S. a relay is not needed to turn of the headlights if all your gonna do is pulse the door pin wire.

Mike M2

Platinum - Posts: 2,652

Joined: June 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 07, 2009 at 8:00 PM / IP Logged

I believe that is what he meant, but i could see where it could be thought of oin a different way.As for the autolight situation, Pulsing the door trigger won't work as it will trigger the alarm when it shuts down. In this case, the relay is the best option for turning them off...

I wouldn't be upset about the way it was installed, an easy mistake the way it triggers the alarm. It isn't common to group these two products together as Pursuit makes other units that will do it all in one for a lot less cost. The installer probably wasn't around long enough to see what happens after the RS times out(understandably). The real issue is getting lied to about fixing it.....

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

ckeeler

Gold - Posts: 1,461

Joined: June 20, 2008

Location: New Mexico, United States

Posted: January 07, 2009 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged

Mike M2 wrote:

As for the autolight situation, Pulsing the door trigger won't work as it will trigger the alarm when it shuts down. In this case, the relay is the best option for turning them off...

I wouldn't be upset about the way it was installed, an easy mistake the way it triggers the alarm.

Mike, Mike, Mike.........my earlier post about adding diodes on the actual OE wires then puting the alarm trigger wire between is why you can just pulse the wire and not set off the alarm. you put the pulse after shut down on the other side of the diode from the trigger wire for the alarm! add on alarm and remote start problem - Page 2 -- posted image.

you dont need a realy!!

and i still say adding the diodes is not a bad idea either.

and besides, if a guy just wanted not to do all 4 wires that way........fine.........just do the one wire your gonna pulse after shutdown with the diode installed like i described. it wont trigger the alarm.

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