ckeeler wrote:
| um yea whatever. right along with a doohickey and a thing-a-ma--jig too huh? |
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No, a doohickey is only used when you need the install to be weathertight. And a think-a-ma-jig is for European cars. The canooter valve is clearly the right component for this situation, unless the car's a GT hatchback (you know the ones with the permanently sealed muffler bearings that you don't have to grease every oil change).
On a more serious note,
Unclemike1, if the guy you talked to is a sales person, service manager, etc. I'm not really surprised that he didn't know diode isolation or auto light shutdown. Hell, most installers I've ever dealt with (and I don't mean just the DIYers on this forum) don't have a clue how relays or diodes work and will not ever install them without having either a diagram or an experienced installer walking them through it.
But in this case, given the professional reputation of the shop I'm not sure why the guy you talked to didn't just go ask another installer if it could be done. Or call Chris Luongo up...Chris is possibly the best security/remote start guy on this forum.
99 times out of a hundred a shop can get away with just telling the customer that there's no way to make the remote start do the following:
- disarm the factory alarm
- relock the doors after shutdown
- cancel the RAP/radio/autolamps
- activate the rear defogger
- integrate with an aftermarket alarm without requiring the user to manually disarm prior to remote starting
- avoid slightly grinding the starter or taking multiple tries to start
- bypass the immobilizer without sacrificing one of the vehicle's keys
- flash the parking lights
- shut down automatically when you hit the brake
Either that, or they can charge extra for any of those things. I'm probably exaggerating slightly, but I shudder to think at what shops do to sell remote starts for $99 installed.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
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