2007 toyota tacoma 2.7l remote start.

hey guys, since this is my first post, and i could not find a intro section, my name is Jason. I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma 2.7l single cab 4x4. I am an active member at www.customtacos.com, but i am having trouble getting sound advice on my current project. a little christmas present to myself was an avital model 4113 remote start. i am a mechanic by trade, so it's not the physical act of the installation that i am worried about. i would just like to ask a couple questions. as far as i know, my vehicle is not equipped with a chip in the key. how can i verify that i do not need some sort of immobilizer relay? the installation guide tells me to refer to www.directtechs.com, but i am not a registered dealer, so i am not allowed access. where can i find a guide telling me where the wires are for this? is there something on this site i can refer to? i am sure all these questions have been asked before, and i did search, but all i found was information on the "up" model v6 tacoma. thank you in advance guys, i am looking foward to getting this installed, and also learning a thing or two!

To double-check that you don't have an immobilizer key: 1. Sit in vehicle, with engine off, ignition key removed. 2. Just below the radio, there's a panel with the clock, the passenger airbag light, and maybe some buttons to set the clock too. 3. Verify that there is NOT a flashing red light in that panel. WIRING; Use that chart for the wire colors, but you can usually find better locations for the wires, to make things easier. Ignition wires: You don't even have to unfasten the cover from the steering column. Once you get the dash off, you'll see the heavy harness coming down, then going off to the left. Brake and parking lights: Brake, and positive lights, are together in the left-most plug at the driver's fuse box. Locks: After removing the driver's kick panel, it's not hard to figure out which wire bundle is coming in from the driver's door (Just reach into the doorjamb and wiggle the rubber boot, while watching inside.) The driver's door harness has two separate bundles, taped together. Your lock wires are in the smaller of the two bundles, the one that does NOT contain the larger wires. P.S. Factory Toyota remotes don't work with the car running. Even if you have factory keyless, it won't let you in when the remote starter is on. Tach: Just below the fuses, in the OBDII mechanic's diagnostic plug. Apply the parking brake to get the pedal out of the way, snap out the plug, let it hang down, and you'll have just enough slack to work. DISASSEMBLY: 1. Just below and to the right of the ignition key, depending on where your parking brake is......either snap out the change pocket, or pry off the little trim plate around the parking brake handle. 2. On driver's side floor, pry off "dead pedal" (footrest), unscrew little plastic "hand nut" behind. 3. Pry off driver's doorsill panel. It's brittle when cold; leave truck running with heater on before starting. 4. Remove driver's kick panel by sliding backward, going slowly so you can realize where it's clipped on to try not to break it. 5. Behind where that kick panel was, remove one 10mm bolt. 6. Going back to the right, below where the change pocket/emergency brake is, open that little "flap," undo one more 10mm bolt. 7. Pull entire dash panel backward, it'll come off. Undo all wiring plugs, and hood release cable. 8. You'll see a small black metal plate, partially blocking your ignition wires. Undo three 10mm bolts, remove black panel. REMOTE START BRAIN LOCATION: Seeing as it's only a remote starter, and not an alarm, I see no need to hide it. Just to the left of the brake pedal assembly, there's a little room there. I would secure it to the brake pedal assembly with a few zip ties. Then, it's very easy to access in the future for any repairs. But make sure you put it in a way that it can't interfere with any of the pedals.

wow, that list of wires and their locations is just what i need! i guess i failed to mention that i have manual locks and windows, so i assume i will just cap those wires and not worry about them. the following wires ask for 30 amps all positive output to ignition circuit output to starter circuit output to accessory circuit high current 12 input high current 12v input i assume that these are going to be found in the engine bay. can you guys shed any light on this?

all those wires are in the ignition column......match thos wires to the tech sheet that was posted above....if you look to the right of the wire colors on the tech sheet it will tell you the location of the wire....MECP Certified

I am the loudest and proudest member of the Fighting Aggies Class of '11 WHOOP!

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and as for the wire i have marked for "light flash". should i tap into PARKLIGHTS       Green       In 13-pin plug on left of fuses on fusebox under dash ?

oh yeah sry bout that...but yeah thats what you do...i dont think you would need the keysense either...MECP Certified

I am the loudest and proudest member of the Fighting Aggies Class of '11 WHOOP!

SAW 'EM OFF!

jrod83 wrote: since you put it that way this is all you would need <TABLE id=ppp style="MARGIN-TOP: 5px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"> <T> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">12 VOLTS</TD> <TD> WHITE/ blue</TD> <TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD> <TD align=middle> + </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> IGNITION</TD> <TD> Blue / YELLOW</TD> <TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD> <TD align=middle> + </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> IGNITION 2</TD> <TD> BLACK/ red</TD> <TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD> <TD align=middle> + </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> ACCESSORY</TD> <TD> Runs with ignition wire</TD> <TD>   </TD> <TD align=middle>  </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> STARTER</TD> <TD> BLACK/ white</TD> <TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD> <TD align=middle> + </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> STARTER 2</TD> <TD> GREEN/ black</TD> <TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD> <TD align=middle> + </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> KEY SENSE</TD> <TD> GREEN/ black</TD> <TD> Ignition switch  </TD> <TD align=middle> - </TD></TR> <TR> <TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> TACH SIGNAL</TD> <TD> BLACK/ white</TD> <TD> At diagnostic plug below driver's side dash  </TD> <TD align=middle> AC </TD></TR></T></TABLE>

ok this is good news, since this is only half of the wires listed.just to verify i will list the wires you are saying i don't need factory alarm disarm factory rearm (+)ignition out(to alarm) (-)activation input (-)horn output ground (i think i will need this, and i have some more questions about grounding) status output (-)accessory output (-)starter output (-)starter output (+)brake switch shutdown wire (-)neutral safety switch input (-)hood pinswitch shutdown wire this is just list of wires this thing has minus the ones you said i need. i plan on grounding out a couple of the safety features. the neutral saftey switch input, and the hood pinswitch shutdown wire. can these go to the same ground that the black ground wire goes to, or should i find a different location.

i got into my ignition/steering column and i found a few wires that have the same colors. i took a picture, and it's a little bit larger then the recommended size, but you cant see what i am talking about with it any smaller the wires to the left go up into my wiper stalk, but the are the same guage as the ones to the right, so i thought i would ask (they seem to be pretty heavy duty for wipers) also the little harness coming off the left side of the ignition switch has a white wire with a black stripe. is this my starter wire?