2007 toyota tacoma 2.7l remote start.

it could be possibly...stick the probe from your meter on it...if it reads 12v during crank only then youve got a winner...also your ignition needs to be a true ignition....it shouldnt drop below 9-10v while cranking...MECP Certified

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The plug that is behind the switch(where you have the two arrows pointing) is where you will find the Battery, igntion 1 and 2, accessory and both starter wires. You will need a relay for the second starter wire as your Rs only has a single starter output. Be careful unplugging that plug, if you pull on the switch it will come apart. As Chris stated, you can follow that harness down to the fusebox and tap in there.Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Yes, just like Mike said, that big plug where you have the red arrows is the plug for the ignition switch......and you'll see that a few inches further down is the best spot to cut open the black covering and make your connections. Neutral safety switch of remote starter requites a ground to enable remote start. Hoodpin switch input requires ABSCENCE of ground to enable remote start. (A ground on this wire indicates that the hood is open, and the remote starter won't operate.) Your remote starter probably has some way to select its parking light output to be positive or negative. I find it easiest to catch the positive light wire along with the brake, there at the fuse box. You could also find the negative wire inside the steering column, if desired. In either case, be sure your remote starter is set up so its parking light output matches the connection you chose on the truck. And, going by your picture, you definitely for sure do not have a transponder key. Your key cylinder is all metal, and doesn't have the receiver ring for the immobilizer key.

A couple things: 1. I did a write-up with pics of a similar truck a while ago. You could view it here if you're inclined. 2. As far as transponder immobilizers on the Tacoma, it seems to me that the V6 models have them standard and the 4 cylinders do not have them at all. I think Directechs said that when the current generation came out for '05. I can currently verify that I've done an '09 4-cylinder extended cab which had no transponder. (It was also a manual, of which fact neither I nor the shop owner gave any thought for about an hour, but I digress.) 3. You'll need a standard automotive SPDT relay for the 2nd starter wire. Wire as follows: 85: (-) 2nd start output from Avital. 86, 87: constant fused 12V(you can connect this to the 12V inputs to the brain between the brain and the fuseholder. 30: 2nd start wire on truck. 4. Parking lights are selectable (+) via a jumper on the side of the brain. Also as Chris Luongo mentions, there's a harness connected towards the bottom front of the fusebox which comes out and goes downward; this contains (+) parking lights and brake switch as well. C Renner's Auto Electronix

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Just my personal opinion, I wouldn't ignore the safety features like you stated. Anytime I install a remote start, I ALWAYS use a pin switch/tilt switch or the toggle switch. You need to have at least 1 option to completely disable the remote start. Trust me! It doesn't take that much time and if for any reason something goes haywire, you can flip that toggle switch to disable the system.

chriswallace187 wrote: A couple things: 1. I did a write-up with pics of a similar truck a while ago. You could view it here if you're inclined. 2. As far as transponder immobilizers on the Tacoma, it seems to me that the V6 models have them standard and the 4 cylinders do not have them at all. I think Directechs said that when the current generation came out for '05. I can currently verify that I've done an '09 4-cylinder extended cab which had no transponder. (It was also a manual, of which fact neither I nor the shop owner gave any thought for about an hour, but I digress.) 3. You'll need a standard automotive SPDT relay for the 2nd starter wire. Wire as follows: 85: (-) 2nd start output from Avital. 86, 87: constant fused 12V(you can connect this to the 12V inputs to the brain between the brain and the fuseholder. 30: 2nd start wire on truck. 4. Parking lights are selectable (+) via a jumper on the side of the brain. Also as Chris Luongo mentions, there's a harness connected towards the bottom front of the fusebox which comes out and goes downward; this contains (+) parking lights and brake switch as well.

can you go into more detail about this relay? i was looking at them on the radio shack website. i assume those numbers are the different pins on the relay. will they be stamped so i can tell which ones are which? you said on pins 86 and 87 i have to connect the same wire to them. is that what you meant?

can i edit a post? anyway, sorry for asking before i did a little research. i figured out the whole relay thing from the relay section on your site. i am still not 100 percent on why i need this though.

There are 2 starter wires in your truck and both must be powered up during cranking of the RS. Your RS only has one starter wire so you need to make another using the relay.Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

the way you explained to hook up that relay doesn't match the diagram on the siteis this right?

tacomajason wrote: the way you explained to hook up that relay doesn't match the diagram on the site is this right?

both ways are right because when the relay is engages it connects 30 and 87 together so it do not matter if you have 30 to 12volts or 87 to 12vols just make sure you hook this wire up and do NOT jump it with the 1st starter other wise your going to have some issues with the truck