2002 silverado, alarm/remote start

Hmmmm, thats a new one to me. Try it.It also looks to be a different shade of green than the disarm wire, it looks more like a yellowish green then just light green. I also noticed that diagram shows for you to grab your tach wire under the hood at the the BCM. I know for a FACT that you can get it behind the instrument cluster. It's still a white wire where it plugs into the cluster. The instrument cluster comes right out by simply removing the 4 7mm screws that hold it in. Then unplug it and find the white wire in that harness.

CutDog504 wrote: Hmmmm, thats a new one to me. Try it.It also looks to be a different shade of green than the disarm wire, it looks more like a yellowish green then just light green. I also noticed that diagram shows for you to grab your tach wire under the hood at the the BCM. I know for a FACT that you can get it behind the instrument cluster. It's still a white wire where it plugs into the cluster. The instrument cluster comes right out by simply removing the 4 7mm screws that hold it in. Then unplug it and find the white wire in that harness.

Yes, behind the instrument cluster,that is where I picked up the tach on my 2005. We are also instaling an in dash DVD in that truck, and I plan to tap into the tach wire while I have the front bezel removed. If that wire is in fact the driver only unlock, I'll let you know. I am trying to get a full wiring schematic on that year model.   If I could just see the pinout for the BCM that would answer alot of questions. I have everything I need to do the install, just havn't had time.

Just do what you'e been doin, getting all your ducks in a row to make the install go as smooth as possible when you do get a chance to do it. Just keep compiling all the info you are gather from all the different sources so you know you have all the right connection points. Also, if time is an issue, you may want to do it in stages. Like you said grabbing the tach wire one day, you could maybe wire in the dides for you doorpins and doorlocks another day, etc. Your locks and doorpins is going to be to most time consuming/aggravating/confusing part of the install. You very well may want to do that part first. Tie your doorpin wires together using diodes, and tie into your doorlocks and disarm/arm wires. You can test your connections on the locks and ar/disarm wires by grounding the wire that the alarm is supposed to send a negative pulse thru. You could also do all your work under the hood on another day. Mount the siren and hoodpin and route your wires thru the firewall and have them ready to connect to the alarm. Then when you go to install the alarm, all you do is connect all your ign wires, parking licghts, your prewired doorpin wire and lock wires, your prewired hoodpin and siren, your tach, brake wire, etc. I did my brother's 95 suburban(my 1st big alarm install) like that in stages. Because it was so many bells and whistles, I had no chooice but to do it that way, or else work 12 hours straight. I did the remote start one day, all the window modules another day, found the tach and mounted the sirens (3 total) and hoodpin. Also did an add on pager unit. It took me about a week altogether. This was in 1997 before all the hybrid remote start/2way pager alarms even came out.At the time, that was pretty much the best you could get. It was a Viper 800 with an add on remote start module, 2 DEI 530t power window modules to control 4 windows, and an add on pager system.

There really is a lot involved in an install like this.   I took a couple of days doing the remote start on my 05, but didn't have to worry with door lock wiring since I used the GMSL2 bypass.   I'm no stranger to complicated electronics, but a project like this is time consuming.   I made a nice spreadsheet with all the remote start connections, vehicle connections and bypass connections.   When I am finished I will download it to this site. It might be of some use to someone in the future.   Thanks for all your help.

With GM bypasses I usually prewire the bypass to the alarm brain. I tie in all the connections to the alarm wires that will also tie into the vehicle wire needed for the bypass( for instance, I tie the power and ground on the bypass to the power and ground on the brain) Then I leave the data wire hanging off and tie it into the purple data wire when I'm wiring the brain into the vehicle.

Do you mount the bypass right on the brain? I used a piece of velcro on my other one and stuck it right on the remote start module.    I'm going to take the GMSL2 out of my 05 and put in the 02 (Since I only need the Passlock bypass for the 02). I'm going to put a new INTSL in my 05. Supposedly the heated seat problem is fixed with the newer INTSL.   Also, the data port should supply +12 and ground to the bypass through that connector even though the data part is not used (I think?).   I think I will hook up the remote start brain on the bench and check this.

I've always only connected the bypass module data wire to the purple wire on the diagnostic plug, got all my other connections near the brain. I've zip tied the bypass the brain's harness usually. I also sometimes leave about 12 inches of slack in the wires(after wrapping them good in electric tape) and zip tie the bypass to something up inside the dash. That way, it looks more factory looking. I usually wrap all my harnesses in electric tape to kind od conceal them better.

Do I need to do anything with the dome light supervision or will the body control module take care of that when the door unlock is pulsed?

Connect it to the tan drivers doorpin. Actually just tie it into the factory rearm wire on the brain. Because You'll be connecting that rearm wire to the drivers doorpin wire. Remember the discussion about how to rearm the factory alarm? Split the rearm wire with two diodes(band sides of the diodes facing towards the alarm brain)and the wire going to the doorpin, tie it together with the domelight supervision wire then connect that to the tan drivers doorpin wire. Or else run both that rearm wire and the domelight supervision wire to wherever you tie into the tan doorpin wire, and connect both to that tan wire.

So you are saying connect the dome light supervision output to the factory alarm rearm output on the remote start unit (which will be connected through a diode to the driver door pin wire)?   So the dome light supervision output will come on (and stay on a few seconds) when the unlock is pulsed and simulate the door pin switch being activated?   On this unit the dome light supervision output is a programmable relay, should I diode isolate this output?