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way2qk4u2c 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 23, 2009 at 6:18 PM / IP Logged  

So im here again with questions lol- i tried searching for this but didnt really come up with any hard evidence.

I have the ADS-AL-CA bypass and hear its suppose to be the greatest and make everything work easier. My question is on all the installation diagrams only show like 3 wires to hook up...it keeps saying it can do all these things like unlock doors, factory anti theft, heated seats and so much more. But how does all this apply or work with only 3 wires hooking up. Or am i thinking about this the whole thing the wrong way- do i still have to hook up each wires to the appropriate output to the bypass in order to work? Or does it use the bus architect through those 3 wires to communicate for all these various outputs?

Why cant i grasp this lol. please help?

way2qk4u2c 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 23, 2009 at 6:45 PM / IP Logged  

Does a 2006 F150 Have a CANbus??? Maybe thats what im missing.

Maybe i have to hook everything up the old way hardwire and just use the ADS-AL-CA for the bypass??? Does this sound correct?

way2qk4u2c 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 23, 2009 at 7:12 PM / IP Logged  

Does anyone have the idatalink usb cable if i have to flash the firmware on it? Im in IL?

Thanks

todds440 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2009 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged  
If infact the vehicle you are going to put the Idatalink ADS-AL CA on is a 06 F 150, then the only thing that module is going to do is bypass the factory immobilzer.  You would be better off and saving more money using an ADS-TB.  The TB is cheaper and will bypass the immobilzer and thats it.  The door locks and factory security(if it has it) will have to be done through the R/S to the vehicle.  The only connecting 3 wires from R/S to idata piece is done through an RS232 data port.  Eliminating the wire to wire and done all through data.  You should have the ADS module loaded with the current and latest software for your specific vehicle, except I think some of the solo series have the correct software in them.  The ADS- AL CA is an awsome piece when used on vehicles with CAN BUS, it eliminates all the wire to wire and does it all through data and saving time.  Hope this answers some of your questions.
way2qk4u2c 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2009 at 10:55 AM / IP Logged  

Yeah thats exactly what i was looking for...Yeah after going around in circles trying to figure this one out- i finally realize you are correct.

I might be screwed to since i dont have the USB to update the firmware for the ADS-AL for my car. I should have gotten the TB one.

This is gonna be fun :)

loneranger 
Copper - Posts: 572
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2008
Posted: January 24, 2009 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged  
I don't see why any shop around you, who sells IdataLink products, wouldn't program it for you. They may ask for a small fee.
Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
way2qk4u2c 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2009 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged  

Well im trying to install it right now ran into a hicup

I cant find the door triggers or door unlock or lock

It has keyless entry so the door lock/unlock should be Pink/Green and Pink / YELLOW

I found a green plug that has those 2 wires but they dont do anything when you meter them while playing with the locks. Im stumped on this one. Any help would be great- everyone says those wires are it but im wondering if the FX4 model is alittle different because i have nothing. When i try to unplug that green connector the door locks still work?

I only have 2 green connectors any where under the dash- unplugging both of those and the door looks still work. I cant trace anything back to the door lock- this is frustrating

Please help- im stuck in th egarage until i figure this out

todds440 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2009 at 8:01 PM / IP Logged  
The 06 f150s Ive done were ext. cab and the door lock wires ran from drivers kick panel to the Body control module.  The BCM is located on the drivers side cab rear wall.  You can find the wires under the piece of trim (left of the drivers seat) that covers the carpeting and door seal.  You might have to search through the bundle  but they should be there.
way2qk4u2c 
Copper - Posts: 74
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2009 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  

Yeah after i read some more i finally tried that- i found them right where the ext cab door opens up in the big bundle.

My next questions is I really like how the factory keyless fob works with the car. What i mean is when i hit the unlock button on the factory key fob- the dome lights come on and headlights. It makes it nice at dark to light your way up coming in to the truck. Im wondering what is the easiest way to accomplish this. I know the R/S has domelight supervision and headlights output? But what wire am i looking for on the truck and do i need a relay? I have the viper 5901 going in.

So far i have everything hooked up but my bypass and the dome light supervision.

Also i have a red light blinking on the dash which i assume is the factory anti theft? Do i have to disable that for the R/S to work properly? If so what wire is that? 

I know my last car i was able to just find the disarm factory alarm wire and it worked great because it would unlock the car and turn the dome light on.

Thanks guys for all your help- this site is great!!!!!! I hope im not a big pain LOL

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 25, 2009 at 10:03 AM / IP Logged  
Pop out the panel with the headlamp switch and dimmer wheel.
At the plug behind the dimmer wheel, there should be maybe five or six wires.
One of those wires will test as a ground when you move the dimmer wheel to the full-up position. Connect your Viper's domelight supervision wire here, no relay needed. That will turn on the domelight and maybe the puddle lamps (if equipped).
If you want to turn on the headlights, you'll have to do some testing behind the headlight switch. Most likely the wire will be positive trigger, with a relay required.
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