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using 611t to create a ground when armed


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ckeeler 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 3:50 PM / IP Logged  

phree_refill wrote:
     So it seems that the 611T is still very useful in that it appears to be one of the few latching relays out there that will open AND close using only one "pole" and NOT needing the polarity to change. Correct?

yes. to work like that, an electronic solution is needed as there is no mechanical relay that will work like that.

phree_refill 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 3:59 PM / IP Logged  
I hate to be a persistent pest but now i have another question. I have never dealt with such small relays that have poles designed for printed circuit boards rather than connecting wire directly to them. I assume the best way to go about connecting my wires to each pole will be to solder my wires to them. I mean, there really is no other way is there?
howie ll 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged  
I tend to place them in a vice and solder a number at the same time alternatively you want to be upside down under the dash and try soldering them...not.
ckeeler 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged  
i like to purchase the sockets that they fit into and just solder and heat shrink my wires to the socket so that if a relay ever has to be changed, just pop it out and put in a new one. (the sockets have the same type of pins that you will have to solder to as the relay however) just like an IC socket.
phree_refill 
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Joined: January 22, 2009
Posted: March 04, 2009 at 4:38 PM / IP Logged  

I'm very excited now! I just realized how i can "turn off" my after market alarm using my key rather than having to push the unlock button on my remote all the time. Listen to what i have come up with and tell me if you see any faults in it.  

Ok i go ahead and get this dual coil latching relay all wired in. I have now just created my own (-) ground-when-armed wire that functions right along with my remote start keyless entry. As i currently have the alarm set up, the door trigger wires are diode isolated straight to the alarm input wire of the remote start system. So the only way to NOT have the alarm go off is to ALWAYS use the remote to unlock the doors. Well my truck has a door lock cylinder wire that sends out a negative pulse when i turn the key to the unlock position in the drivers door. I tap into that door lock cylinder wire and run it to the post on my dual coil latching relay that also hosts the negative unlock wire from my remote starter module (diode isolate both the door unlock wire from the remote starter module and door lock cylinder wire from my truck). Now every time i turn the key in the door lock it unlatches the dual coil relay just like what pushing the unlock button on my remote would do.

Now that i have a ground-when-armed wire that can be controlled by either the key in the door or by the keyless entry, I remove my door trigger wires off of the alarm input wire of the remote starter. I take the (-) ground-when-armed wire that i created with the latching relay and run it to post 30 on a regular bosche style relay. I run a 12 volts constant to post 85 on that bosche relay. I run the door trigger wire to post 86 on that bosche relay. And i run the alarm input wire of my remote start to post 87 of that bosche relay. I wire both door trigger wires up the exact same way. Now the only way the door trigger wires will set off my alarm is if the (-) ground-when-armed wire is "armed" and the doors are opened by any other manner than by "disarming" this ground-when-armed wire (so basically the alarm will go off if the doors are not unlocked by either my key or by the remote on my remote start) 

So what do you think? Sorry to be long winded but i was just trying to describe in detail what i was trying to say to hopefully eliminate confusion. You guys see any flaws in the that setup?

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 5:00 PM / IP Logged  
Dream on, the bosch relay will flatten your battery overnight. secondly, all they have to do is "force" your doorlock?  Great, thirdly why not disconnect the door key swithc wire so it only works on the remote.
phree_refill 
Member - Posts: 32
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Joined: January 22, 2009
Posted: March 04, 2009 at 5:21 PM / IP Logged  
The coil on the bosh relay will not be energized. It will not draw any power. The only time it will be energized is in the instance that someone breaks into the truck and opens the doors. The door trigger wire will then produce teh power acrossed the coil.
ckeeler 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  
are you worried someone could just force the lock cylinder on the door to turn?
phree_refill 
Member - Posts: 32
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Joined: January 22, 2009
Posted: March 04, 2009 at 5:46 PM / IP Logged  
No not really. How hard is it exactly to do that? Theifs around my area usually break in by busting windows or other more damaging entry methods. My girlfriend's convertible had the top cut on it and they just crawled down through that.
phree_refill 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2009
Posted: March 04, 2009 at 5:56 PM / IP Logged  
Plus as i stated in my original post and the reason i started this thread, i needed this ground-when-armed wire so i can install the directed 508D radar field sensor. If i get that installed and adjusted correctly, anyone that is close enough and stands around the vehicle long enough to "force" the lock will surely set off this radar alarm input. In theory they would anyways...
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