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2008 civic alarm issue


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rtl402 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 7:52 AM / IP Logged  
I have completed an installation of an avital 4100 R/S in my brothers 2008 civic. However, the factory alarm continues to go off everytime he starts the car. I double checked the wires 3 times. The factory arm/disarm is connected properly so I have no idea what else to try with this, short of cutting the factory arm wire and installing an inline switch to turn it on when taking it into the dealer for service. Any thoughts?
chev104275 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 8:21 AM / IP Logged  
what color wire did you connect your FAD wire too ?? should be Brown Neg pulse in the DKP tests using the key in the door cyl and turning to unlock
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Chris Luongo 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 9:08 AM / IP Logged  
Double checked the wires three times how?
Visually, or testing with your test light or meter?
1. Test the wire on the car to make sure it really tests as ground when turning the key in the driver's door.
2. Test the factory-disarm output from the 4100 to make sure it really puts out a momentary ground when you activate the remote starter.
howie ll 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 9:57 AM / IP Logged  
Wasn't there some issue the last time this came up that the R/S factory alarm disable wasn't putting out enough current and thus had to be relay boosted?
Thack79 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged  
I didnt have this problem with a python 1400. Just had to figure out it was the smallest wire in the harness (smallest ive ever seen actually).
rtl402 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 12:33 PM / IP Logged  
Tested the wire with my multimeter, yes i tested using the key in the driver door lock cylinder. 12volts at rest, turn key drops to 0 volts. I also checked the unit to see that it is functioning properly, it was. I even tried swapping a different brain in just in case, same issue.
loneranger 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 2:13 PM / IP Logged  
Have you tried manunally disarming the factory alarm, with the factory dis-arm wire? Try to reproduce the event, by manually momentarilly grounding the factory dis-arm wire and then R/S. If it succeeds, then the issue lies with your R/S unit not providing enough current or no current, to the factory dis-arm wire. If it fails, then you need to look else where.
Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
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Mark Mizenko 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged  

rtl402 wrote:
Tested the wire with my multimeter, yes i tested using the key in the driver door lock cylinder. 12volts at rest, turn key drops to 0 volts. I also checked the unit to see that it is functioning properly, it was. I even tried swapping a different brain in just in case, same issue.

12Volts at rest?   You should be looking for  (-)Ground in the unlock position.

loneranger 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 2:42 PM / IP Logged  

Mark Mizenko wrote:
12Volts at rest?   You should be looking for  (-)Ground in the unlock position.

  • +12v at rest is correct.
  • He is showing GROUND in the unlock position.
Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
KarTuneMan 
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Posted: March 24, 2009 at 11:39 PM / IP Logged  

chev104275 wrote:
what color wire did you connect your FAD wire too ?? should be Brown Neg pulse in the DKP tests using the key in the door cyl and turning to unlock

I second this question! What wire DID you connect to?

Should be a brown in the harness from the door (behind the fusebox) where the lock/unlock are located.

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