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verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.







) I would look into the underhood wiring when trying to find a major drop like that. The body and chassis are isolated on most domestics, leading me to believe (as does soundcontrol) that there is an issue with your grounds, and ONLY in the grounds. I know you said it only started recently, but it could be coincidence that it started with the new amp. Where, PRECISELY, are your amp grounds connected? Are the grounds dedicated to each amp, or do they share a ground point? I would personally (and I did this in my system) ground both of the amps to the negative terminal of the cap, THEN run a single wire of EQUIVALENT GAUGE OR LARGER to a single solid ground point on the body or chassis. Are these significantly larger amps than the old ones - the ones you never got the voltage drop with? Where did you get the HO alternator? IS IT, in fact, a purpose built HO alternator, or is it a re-wound OEM alternator, claiming to be an HO device? I ask, because oftentimes rewound alts DON'T GET NEW DIODES!!! One or two things to consider there...
Personally, I would NOT add a second battery. A higher CCA battery, (what is the CCA currently? (no pun intended)) possibly two BUT IDENTICAL batteries, and no isolator - forget the idea of an isolator completely. They are hard on primary (i.e. SLA) batteries. You said you got a new battery recently... Was it FULLY charged and then load tested before you installed it? Before you say yes, think about how long it MIGHT have set on the shelf, before you came along and gave it a home... In only 45 days on the shelf, even a SLIGHTLY discharged cell can sulfate, dramatically reducing the current capacity and life of a battery. Have your battery load tested, but do it at a proper battery store, don't let AutoZone do it for you.
These are where I would start... It seems as though the alternator or ground, COMBINED WITH a potentially weak or defective battery are where your issues are arising.