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watts for the buck


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rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 23, 2009 at 10:52 AM / IP Logged  

1. The ground used to be here...watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.

Now it is right here...

watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.

And that Rail is bolted to the Paintless Cab on the Floor. (Rail is on the right & is about 4mm Thick) Broke 2 Drill Bits Trying to Go through it.

watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.

With the new ground ^^^ the voltage increased from 13.8v to 14.2v (at idle) So I thought that was impressive... right? The Amp is sharing a Common Ground The (Left wire) with the Cap (Right wire) right now to keep its Length as short as possible. Or should it just be ON the negative terminal?

2. I have my Midrange amp grounded to a bolt to the left of the truck(cap on the right Close to the Sub amp). The ground (from T3002) would have to reach 2.5ft+ to get to the cap. Is that a ok distance? I have a Extra Un-Fused Distrobution block that I can use from the Neg Cap terminal to Both AMps.

2. The Battery is 850 CCA and I hope its charged watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.? I'll def look into getting it checked out now. But My battery before was a 2 year old 540 CCA Motorcraft that never dimmed. (in the truck when I bought it)

3. All of my Sub amps have been T10001bd that the voltage never dropped to 7v and seemed to destroy my electrical system like it was doing recently. **Note- I tested a old amp (Different Kind) with the same wiring and it did not drop the voltage below 11v**

4. I wouldnt mind getting a second battery but I've heard bad stories about wet-cell batteries in vehicles. It just seems too Dangerous now.

5. The wiring From Battery to Cap and CAP to  SUB amp is 0 gauge. The T3002 has all 4 Gauge. Distributed from a block from the Caps Positive terminal.

6. Alright And how should I go about testing my grounds under the hood. Should I test for Voltage with Pos from Battery to Ground? or should I check for resistence between Battery (-) terminal and the other ground point?

I can't hear you!
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 23, 2009 at 11:50 AM / IP Logged  

Well I Just added another Ground wire that I saw under the hood That wasnt mentioned and now im Idling at 14.39v instead of 14.28.. any little bit helps right?

And the does the (+) to Alt from battery need to be fused or what? I got the fuses I just need to go and buy the fuse holder if i need it.

I can't hear you!
soundcontrol 
Member - Posts: 37
Member spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: May 23, 2009 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  

You've done all the right things to get your system wired really well. I'm not a big fan of going to seat belt bolts or things like that but it seems to be ok with your T3002. 

I've done some installs with longer then recommended grounds and never had any problems. Especially when its not your larger powered amp. When you ground it properly, with the correct size wire you will notice that the measured resistance for the wire is very little.(especially when compared to a wire that is shorter)

The only thing I would consider changing is the grounds to the metal rail. I can't say that is the cause of your problem at this point but it's the only other thing left that I would change. When you can move them down a few feet to get to the actual source instead of something that is connected to it I think that is the way to go. The measeured resistance of the little extra length in wire is probably lower then the resistance of the metal connected to the cab of your truck.

For the wire going from your alt to your battery it's up to you. It never hurts to put a fuse on something. I didn't on my car because it was a  direct wire about 2.5 feet  that doesn't touch anything in between except some plastic tubing it is zip tied to.

"3. All of my Sub amps have been T10001bd that the voltage never dropped to 7v and seemed to destroy my electrical system like it was doing recently. **Note- I tested a old amp (Different Kind) with the same wiring and it did not drop the voltage below 11v**"

What kind of amp did you use to test  the wiring?(make and model) Or what kind of possible current draw does it have?

6. Alright And how should I go about testing my grounds under the hood. Should I test for Voltage with Pos from Battery to Ground? or should I check for resistence between Battery (-) terminal and the other ground point?

Both. I think the battery pos to ground I would do first, then the resistance. If all the battery positive to grounds test to be the same then the resistance measurement will only confirm that they are all similar resistance. If one test way off from the rest the resistance measusrement may show why. Loose connection or bad crimp or terminal ect.

Just do something
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 24, 2009 at 5:48 PM / IP Logged  

I Just got the Hofonics amp installed and adjusted the the gains and other frequency knobs to my needs. So Far so Good. No Major Voltage Drops. Not really Catching any drops below 11.5v. and keep in mind this is from the Demand of the T3002 (700- 800wrms) (Birth sheet reads 901wrms Bridged @2ohms) and the BXI2408D Amp.

So I may or may not have a ground problem but It has seemingly gone away.

But I think I am finished with it for a while. I've done these upgrades and I just want to enjoy it now.

I can't hear you!
soundcontrol 
Member - Posts: 37
Member spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: May 24, 2009 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged  

Good deal. Hope it works well. It should be loud.

Post pics when you get time.

Also, did you mention early having dual mid bass speakers in the doors? If so if you have pics of that could you post it as well.

Just do something
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 25, 2009 at 12:15 AM / IP Logged  

I only have 1 speaker in each door. In the Supercabs they have speakers in the front and Back-suicide doors.

But Yeah Ill post some pictures as soon as I can. I Should be able to tomorrow

I can't hear you!
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 25, 2009 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged  

Here's the Set up... as of now

Power Acoustik Deck And Clarion Equalizer

watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.

Rockford Fosgate T3002 (4 gauge connects) & Hifonics BXI2408D (0 gauge Connects). 3F Capacitor to the right of the Amps

watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image. 

4 10inch Pioneer Premiers in self made enclosure watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.. I plan on Getting a FiberGlass enclosure in some months... I Need to find out about How much they go for because I have no clue of Fiberglass prices. I need the fiberglass box so it can bend over a hump under the back seat where there is about another 1cbft.

watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.          watts for the buck - Page 5 -- posted image.

After the Fiber Glass Box I will be finished for a while. Thanks for the help everybody

I can't hear you!
aznboi3644 
Gold - Posts: 2,600
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 01, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 2:10 PM / IP Logged  
Fiberglass box would be around 400-500 dollars...thats what the shop near me charges.
Custom Enclosure Design
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 2:20 PM / IP Logged  
man... Guess I'll have this box much longer then i intended. UNless my local shops can battle eachother in prices (=
I can't hear you!
soundcontrol 
Member - Posts: 37
Member spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  

Considering the size of the box and time needed in labor along with material cost it would be tough to go much cheaper and not suffer in quality.

Do you use your back seat much? If not at all you could do a great custom install with it out, and not have to use fiberglass. Plus have a great amp rack made to go with it.  Or go half and half, and leave part of the back seat and do  like a 60/40 split  or 50/50.

Looks good though.

Just do something
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