Blown JBL PX300.4 Amplifier?

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i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,667

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 5:22 PM / IP Logged

This will work better and it is cheaper. This is a dual element bulb, you need to parallel the 2 elements. It is a 3 pin connector on the back of the bulb. You will have to use your meter to determine the common connection and connect that to the battery wire. Then connect both of the other pins to the amp's power wire.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoHeadlights/SealedBeam/PRD~0203676P/GE%2BHalogen%2BHeadlight%252C%2BH6054.jsp

Place a single 10 amp fuse in the amplifier. Do not secure the remote wire to the amp, you will need to be able to quickly remove it. Touch the remote wire to the remote terminal for a couple seconds at first. Notice the brightness of the headlamp. If it is a class D amplifier, it is normal for the light to flicker a bit before it turns on dimly but steady.

y2j514

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: April 26, 2007

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 6:28 PM / IP Logged

Ok, so I just bought the sealed beam - I had a $5 off coupon as well - scored it for like $7 w/ tax. I have not opened it from the box yet - but what will we be looking for when we do this? Just to see if the light comes on?

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,667

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 6:55 PM / IP Logged

Just to see if the light comes on brightly or just barely lights up. We are hoping for not bright. We also need to check some voltages when you get it on. You need to ground your black meter lead and touch the red lead to the Left leg of each power supply transistor. Notice the DC voltage. If all of the driver transistors are OK, they should all read the same. Do not leave the amp on long enough to test all 8 transistors. Check 2 notice reading, remove remote wire and write down what you find. Power it up again and check the other 2 on that side, remove remote and write those down. Allow the amp to rest for a minute, and repeat steps for the other 4 transistors.

y2j514

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: April 26, 2007

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged

Awesome sounds good - except one tiny problem. The headlight I got was an H6054 style sealed beam. It has 3 pins in the back and they all have full continuity w/ each other. Am I missing something here?

y2j514

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: April 26, 2007

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 7:15 PM / IP Logged

Nevermind - I figured it out by using a 6V battery on it.

-----

Ummm...new problem. I grabbed everything getting ready to bring it out to my car and well - I realized I can not get to all the Z44s while it is bolted into the heatsink...

y2j514

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: April 26, 2007

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 7:40 PM / IP Logged

However, you know that link you gave me to test transistors? I did that on my Z44s before I soldered them to the board to make sure they were good before I installed them to the board. They all were then. So should I still connect it up and check the brightness of the light? Or should I take it all apart and solder wires to every left leg leading out of the heatsink - that way I can test them when its in the heat sink?

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,667

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 8:01 PM / IP Logged

There is a chance that the driver transistors have failed. I was having trouble making heads or tails out of the results you posted earlier, the headlight will keep you from having to buy more Z-44s if the drivers are bad. But hey, if you are feeling lucky, scrap the light and go for it.

y2j514

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: April 26, 2007

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged

Lol - Unlucky is my middle name. When the Z44s were out of the board one of thoses resistors were a constant 12V so I'm assuming something else is wrong. Would it be a good idea to just solder small wires to the left legs of the Z44s and run them out of the heatsink so that I could test them like you said? Also in this case - which orientation do you consider to be the left side of the leg?

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,667

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: April 28, 2009 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged

The left leg is the one connected to the resistor. You can take the measurements off of the resistors. If the end of the resistor nearest the transistor is too hard to get to, you can use the other side of the resistor. Just be consistent and check all 8 the same way.

y2j514

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: April 26, 2007

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: April 30, 2009 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged

Sorry not to reply - I just had 2 finals today. I have my last exam on Saturday and I'm officially a physiotherapist - so I'll have a little more time after that. Until then I have to keep cramming. I'll get back to you with the results in a few days. Thank you for your patience, and help.

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Blown JBL PX300.4 Amplifier?

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